We certainly live through complex times, something that often reflects on runways, at times in designs characterized by bleak shades presented in somber moods.
Yet Laduma Ngxokolo always strives to inject a healthy dose of happiness into the collections for his brand, Maxhosa Africa, aiming to energize the wearer and evoke smiles, something that has become increasingly difficult to do in our lives.
Ngxokolo has quite a few reasons to smile, instead: Maxhosa Africa, the brand he founded in 2012, has been thriving for 14 years, boasting over 300 employees and its own production facility in South Africa. It has showcased collections during fashion weeks in New York and Tokyo, it has been displayed at the Smithsonian Museum and New York's MOMA (Museum of Modern Art), and featured in Paris during the local fashion week in March.
Ngxokolo's initial vision for his brand was to create a modern Xhosa-inspired knitwear collection celebrating traditional Xhosa aesthetics (a Bantu ethnic group, the Xhosa are the second largest cultural group in South Africa, after the Zulu-speaking nation).
Through exploring traditional Xhosa beadwork patterns, symbolism, and colors, he found the best inspiration for the knitwear, which he reinterpreted into modern designs resonating with global fashion markets.
Maxhosa's first presentation in the Paris calendar took place at the beginning of March at the residence of the South African ambassador to France.
Rather than a typical runway show, it was conceived as a "cultural event" (culture is central to Ngxokolo's work, the word is also woven into his beadwork chokers).
For this occasion, Ngxokolo unveiled a collection of knitwear featuring modern, graphic motifs that blend African culture and textiles, incorporating Xhosa beadwork and patterns from the Ndebele and Maasai cultures, with hints of Optical Art and colors reminiscent of Pop Art.
In some instances, the designer coordinated a top and a skirt in the same shade and patterns; in others, he introduced multi-layered contrasts by adding a tabard-like vest design (a clever idea for expanding your wardrobe and rejuvenating old pieces) to a jumper. Asymmetrical skirts and tops provided a playful twist; knit tube skirts and sarong skirts offered a sexy option; sporty pieces like men's polos and shorts paired with colorful socks added dynamism and versatility, while knitted suits in pastel shades offered a more subdued look for knitwear enthusiasts who prefer to stay away from bold colors.
Geometric patterns allowed Ngxokolo to create standout pieces, such as pleated skirts that opened like fans revealing colorful inserts, and an openwork blue dress made of wide zigzagging bands of rhomboid shapes that fractured on the body, a silhouette that can be flattering for different shapes and sizes. As for accessories, bags ranged from totes to beaded clutches (beadwork remains one of the trademark techniques of the brand).
Ngxokolo demonstrates a knack for daring color combinations and he's also had two clever intuitions. First, he understood that intricate patterns from tradition can find new life in perfectly wearable and functional modern designs that shouldn't be relegated to museums but used also on an everyday basis. Second, the inclusion of sizes ranging from XS to 4XL for the entire collection – from cropped tops with fractured rhomboid elements and shorts to pencil skirts – offers consumers a wide range of options.
Many designs from this collection are already available for purchase online from the brand's store. While most pieces come with luxury price tags, there are also smaller items like pins and socks that (at €17 and €19, respectively) are affordable and make for unique presents. The more expensive garments represent an investment, though, as, rather than focusing on trends, the brand produces timeless pieces that challenge Western perceptions of African designs.
A six-month pop-up in New York opening later on in March with plans for one in Paris later this year await Maxhosa (in the meantime, the brand's collaboration with Fieldbar has already sold out).
Yet Ngxokolo may be set for more important business: some have dubbed him the "Missoni of Africa" due to his love of colors and patterns (like Missoni he also designs a lifestyle range), but, who knows, maybe his vibrant aesthetic will win him not just a comparison but a proper collaboration with the prestigious Italian house. Another intriguing idea would be to see him collaborating with an African futurists like Olalekan Jeyifous on an installation or a fashion presentation. Time will tell if such collaborations will materialise, but, you can bet that Ngxokolo's future, like his knitwear, is definitely bright.
