Monthly Archives: September 2016

AR Couture in The Age of Hyper Fabrics: Anrealage S/S17

Around January 2013, that is eons ago in fashion history, designer Marga Weimans launched during Amsterdam Fashion Week a collection entitled "Body Archive" in which she analysed the interaction with non-material virtual technology, questioning the reality.  The designer wondered if … Continue reading

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Spring/Summer 17 Details: Shoulder Action

There has been a lot of excitement in Paris in the last few days with Anthony Vaccarello showing his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent, Bouchra Jarrar at Lanvin, Maria Grazia Chiuri leading Dior and Pierpaolo Piccioli going solo at Valentino.  … Continue reading

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Spring/Summer 2017 Details: Utility Pockets (With Some Historical Notes)

"Pockets for no purpose are fashion's newest decoration", announced a feature published in January 1940 on Life magazine. The feature focused on a new trend launched by French couturiers and maybe inspired by the attire of soldiers, hunters, mailmen and … Continue reading

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Spring/Summer 17 Details: Evolution of the Platform Sole

When new creative directors produce their first collection for a fashion house, critics tend to look at its overall mood generated by the combination of fashion and accessories. But, at times, a careful analysis of a key piece in a … Continue reading

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Decomposing Matters: Gabriele Colangelo S/S 17 Vs Dianna Molzan

We often hear the word "craftsmanship" mentioned in connection with fashion. Powerful luxury brands use this term almost as a label to hint at handmade garments or accessories in high-quality materials that take days to be made by artisans. But, … Continue reading

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Fashion in the Brutalist Jungle: Max Mara S/S 17 Vs Lina Bo Bardi

Fact: the same inspiration will lead different people to a wide range of results. Take three designers and tell them to take into consideration a painting of a landscape as a starting point for a collection, and you can bet … Continue reading

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Past Forward: Prada S/S 17

In the last few seasons Milan has become a tale of contrasts: this week we have seen Alessandro Michele at Gucci reworking the past in a maximalist key, while Miuccia Prada stripped down things in search of a minimalist future.  … Continue reading

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Legacy of the Renaissance: Gucci S/S 17

History has taught us that sampling, layering, collaging and piling could be interpreted as fine arts that need to be perfectly tuned before being put into practice. The best sampled tracks in the history of music were indeed produced by visionary … Continue reading

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The Sun Also Rises: Laura Theiss S/S 17

Memories of the Festival of San Fermín in Pamplona from early modernist novel The Sun Also Rises by Ernest Hemingway and the art of religious portraits by the "Spanish Caravaggio" Francisco de Zurbarán, mix and combine in Laura Theiss' Spring/Summer … Continue reading

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Remixing the Historical Drama with the Spy Who Lost Her Clothes: Erdem S/S 17

There has been a trend for historical pastiches during London Fashion Week, where collections weren't inspired just by paintings or archeology. Erdem Moralioglu moved indeed from a news piece from a couple of years ago when divers in the North Sea … Continue reading

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