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Monthly Archives: June 2015
Dynamism and Symbolism in a Designer Dress: Paco Rabanne and Stanley Donen’s “Two for the Road” (1967)
Let's continue the cinematic thread that started yesterday with a brief post on British comedy drama Two for the Road (1967). Directed by Stanley Donen and written by Frederic Raphael (who received an Academy Award nomination for Best Writing for … Continue reading
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Cinema Auction Alert: Morris Everett, Jr. – The Auction Part I @ Profiles in History
Different themes appeared on the Spring/Summer 2016 menswear runways in Milan and Paris so far, but, apart from Dries Van Noten's suits with prints of Marilyn Monroe, films and glamorous stars didn't seem to be a strong inspiration. So, if … Continue reading
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I Was in Prison and You Came to Visit Me: Givenchy Men’s S/S 2016
Exactly a week ago Pope Francis paused in prayer and contemplation before the Shroud of Turin, the burial linen that some believe covered the body of Jesus after crucifixion. Visions of the Shroud easily come to mind when seeing the … Continue reading
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Mistah Kurtz…He a Dandy: Junya Watanabe Men’s S/S 2016
Fans of Junya Watanabe must have had quick visions of the designer's Spring/Summer 2009 womenswear collection upon seeing the Dutch wax fabric sacks on a wooden boat in the hall of Paris' Cité Nationale de l'Histoire de l'Immigration (History of … Continue reading
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Reinventing Traditions: Antoine Peters’ Yak! What a Beautiful Sweater!
In yesterday's post we looked at the perils and traps a fashion designer moving from traditional inspirations and costumes may fall into. Yet there are a few modern designers who are pushing the boundaries a bit with special projects that … Continue reading
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Does Cultural Appropriation Generate Innovation?
"Fashion comes and goes and every now and again you get these inspirations from countries all over the world appearing in contemporary collections," London-based textile expert Barbie Campbell Cole told me last year during an interview I was conducting for … Continue reading
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Austere Architectural Forms: Carlo Scarpa Vs Brioni Men’s S/S 2016
Architect Carlo Scarpa started working in 1969 on a monumental tomb for the Brion family at San Vito di Altivole (near Asolo). The tomb, completed in 1978, is considered as his masterpiece: concrete, glass, steel, mosaics, water, grass and cypresses … Continue reading
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Slowly Does It: Architect Mehrnoosh Khadivi on Thomas Tait’s Pitti Installation
The Slow Food movement was founded in Italy almost thirty years ago, in 1986. Thomas Tait's presentation staged a week ago at the Limonaia di Zanobi del Rosso at the Boboli Gardens in Florence may have been about fashion rather … Continue reading
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Women on Top in a Post-Pop World: Prada Men’s S/S 2016 and Resort 2016
Quite often while analysing a Prada collection, you find yourself hit by a fresh sense of déjà vu and you instantly start wondering where you saw those shades or clothes: was it in a fashion history book, at a rare … Continue reading
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Austerity, Utility and…Geometry: Jil Sander Men’s S/S 2016
Around 250,000 people attended yesterday's anti-austerity march in London to oppose the Tory government’s program of social benefit cuts and privatisation. There was actually a time in history when the word "austerity" also referred to clothes: in the early 1940s … Continue reading
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