Monthly Archives: January 2009

A penny for my (fashion-related) thoughts

There are journalists who complain about the relentless rhythm of fashion weeks. I can see the point, but then journalists reporting from war zones usually don’t complain about the “relentless rhythm” of bombs falling on their heads, do they? In … Continue reading

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The age of Haute Couture: Valentino Vs Jean-Paul Gaultier

The final day at the Paris’ Haute Couture catwalks reconfirmed there are some designers who still conceive high fashion as a fossilised institution lost in the folds of time that shouldn’t renovate itself but still offer the perfect ladylike outfit … Continue reading

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Paris Haute Couture: Chanel, Christian Lacroix, Givenchy, Martin Margiela

Different people react to gloomy times in different ways. Karl Lagerfeld seems for example to have an ethereal vision of our critical times. Indeed, at Chanel’s thousands of white paper flowers were used to decorate the pillars, background and staircase … Continue reading

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Three approaches to Haute Couture: Christian Dior, Alexis Mabille, Armani Privé

I must admit that I'm a little bit bored by the way the fashion media keep on repeating themselves. A very basic example: every time the Haute Couture catwalks are on, fashion critics wonder whether, with the global economic situation … Continue reading

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Paris Menswear: Lanvin, Masatomo, Dior Homme, Maison Martin Margiela, Walter Van Beirendonck, Romain Kremer, Gareth Pugh

Luxury might still be the keyword at Lanvin, but the Autumn/Winter 2009-10 menswear collection looked at a relaxed sort of luxury. Coats, suits, cardigans and trousers were all characterised by soft silhouettes and a dark palette of black, grey, brown … Continue reading

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Paris Menswear: Miharayasuhiro, Hermès and a bit of Sunday pondering

Walking over sand can be immensely sensual, but the sand Mihara Yasuhiro had in mind wasn't of the type you find on a pristine beach. The Japanese designer was probably thinking more about dunes, deserts and the sand-like dust that … Continue reading

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Paris Menswear: Rick Owens, Comme de Garçons Homme Plus, Givenchy, Raf Simons, John Galliano

The hieratical atmosphere that haunted Rick Owens’ Spring/Summer 09 New York catwalks seemed to pervade also his menswear collection. Some of the models wore his signature veil-like headgear and black – in different shades, shapes and materials – was the … Continue reading

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Paris Menswear: Yves Saint Laurent, Hugo by Hugo Boss, Number (N)ine, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Yohji Yamamoto

It’s undeniable that while at Milan menswear the difficult financial climate generated a sombre and serious atmosphere and often resulted in collections that featured high quality garments but also a boring and unnecessary uniformity, Paris has brought back on the … Continue reading

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A brief history of the early “Milanese style”

In a previous post I briefly explored the history of Florentine tailoring. The Milan menswear catwalks finished on Tuesday evening though, and, not having had enough time yesterday, I think I will pay homage to Milanese tailoring today.  There aren't too … Continue reading

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Inauguration Day trends

I know it sounds rather silly and superficial to be writing about fashion trends spotted at the Inauguration Day rather than about the message we got at the end of it, but that’s what I feel like doing today. Most … Continue reading

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