Monthly Archives: February 2010

The Poetics of Androgyny: Paska Devaddis according to Antonio Marras

I made a few examples of bandit styles in previous posts that mentioned Vittorio De Seta’s Bandits of Orgosolo, Asta Nielsen in Urban Gad's Zapatas Bande and Michelina De Cesare. Yet I still haven't had the chance of analysing the … Continue reading

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Netwon Vs Versace

The late Italian designer Gianni Versace always picked the best photographers for his advertising campaigns. Some of you may remember early Versace adverts shot by Helmut Newton, Irving Penn, Francesco Scavullo, Richard Avedon, David Bailey and Bruce Weber. For his … Continue reading

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Cinematic undercurrents in contemporary fashionscapes (J Maskrey, Fendi, Albino, N. 21, Prada)

The latest Autumn/Winter 2010-11 collections provided interesting connections with films, including Arabian Nights, Lady Oscar and The Eyes of Laura Mars and The Colour of Pomegranates. Indeed, the next season looks rather interesting if you are as obsessed as myself … Continue reading

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Fashion, GDR Style: Marco Wilms on Comrade Couture

In our fashion obsessed world in which extravagances à la Lady Gaga are not only championed but also sought after, it’s probably hard to believe that there was a time when individualism was considered as something dangerously subversive. Yet only … Continue reading

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Italy? An Immorality Play

When I first started primary school I was enrolled in a private Catholic institute. My teacher was a strict nun who would slap you very hard if you misbehaved in class or committed something less criminal like making a mistake … Continue reading

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Burberry and the quest for the ‘Avatar’ catwalk

Just a few weeks ago during the haute couture catwalks, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino showcased in their collections designs influenced by James Cameron’s Avatar and by Pandora’s indigenous population, the Na’vi. Yet, apparently, the film didn’t only influence designers, but … Continue reading

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Animal, Vegetable or Mineral: Topshop Unique, Erdem, Christopher Kane and Simon Ekrelius

There is one thing I honestly can’t stand about London and that’s the way how it’s often considered absolutely out of the question to criticise somebody – say an artist, designer or musician – universally revered as a genius. When/if … Continue reading

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Attila Wears Prada

I analysed the connection between fashion and costume design in a previous post on this blog and updated it a few days ago briefly writing about Christian Lacroix’s costumes for Agrippina. It's time to rediscover the old connection again today. … Continue reading

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Meadham Kirchhoff’s Arabian Nights

"Truth does not reside in one dream alone but in many dreams", says Princess Dunya to Prince Tagi in Pier Paolo Pasolini's Il fiore delle mille e una notte (Arabian Nights, 1974). In a way a catwalk show is similar … Continue reading

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Mon Dieu, Is That Lady Oscar or Mary Katrantzou?

In the early 80s TV series from Japan became rather popular in Italy. "Versailles no Bara" – translated as "Lady Oscar", produced by TMS Tokyo Movie Shueisha and directed by Tadao Nagahama and Osamu Dezaki – was definitely among the … Continue reading

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