In yesterday's short post about Bangka Jiyi Temple we looked at sacred architectures contrasting with modern buildings in Taipei.
Let's continue the thread pondering about other types of contrasts and juxtapositions that may inspire us, through a night visit to Songshan's Ciyou Temple.
Legend has it that this temple owes its existence to a wandering Taoist monk who arrived in the area during the 1740s.
Carrying a gilded image of Mazu, the goddess of the sea, the monk met a group of devoted Mazu followers. Together, they embarked on a decade-long endeavor, raising the necessary funds to construct a temple that would pay homage to the goddess.
The construction of the temple started in 1753, reaching its completion in 1757. Initially, the shrine faced the waterfront, where the goddess was believed to watch over fishermen and sailors.
Today, the temple graces the street, serving as a welcoming sight for anyone emerging from Songshan MRT station, and conveniently situated near the lively and bustling Raohe Night Market.
Ciyou Temple boasts a striking triple-tiered roof, a masterpiece of artistry, adorned with intricate sculptures, including several dragons, two of them facing three immortals, symbolizing wealth, happiness, and longevity, and numerous other auspicious figurines, such as the phoenix and characters from historical tales.
Soaring to six floors, the temple is renowned throughout Taiwan for its meticulous design and attention to detail: its construction reveals remarkable stonework, octagonal plafond ceilings, and richly ornamented elements and statues.
The temple's main hall accommodates a staggering 100 different deities. Upon entering the temple's interior, one encounters rows of oil lamps, each illuminated by devoted worshippers, symbolizing their hopes for Mazu's benevolence.
To the right of the Mazu image, a side altar venerates the Earth God, flanked by flag-bearing Tiger Lords. On the left, another side altar is dedicated to Zhusheng Niang-niang, the Goddess of Birth.
This particular temple pays homage to her with 13 female aides instead of the usual 12. The additional aide, Duyu Niang, earned her divine status for her selflessness as a midwife, providing care without accepting payment.
The main shrine room within the temple is a spacious hub, often crowded with people engaged in prayers, religious rituals and chanting ceremonies, as was the case during my visit.
Ciyou Temple opens its doors early in the morning, at 5.30am, and remains accessible until 10.30pm, so there's plenty of time to see it, but a night visit may allow you to stop also at the nearby market.
And this is when you can experience a contrast between the sacred and the profane: in the early evening, devotion, prayers, and spiritual connection mingle with the chaotic atmosphere of the street outside the temple and the nearby market, almost to remind visitors that, amidst the hustle and bustle, there is always time for contemplation, for connecting with something greater, and for seeking solace in prayer.
In this vibrant juxtaposition, one can't help but be entranced by the multifaceted expressions of humanity: you stop for a while listening to the devotees chanting as incense fills the halls of the temple, while outside the aromatic symphony of the market and the food stalls fill the air with very different smells.
Both these scenes remain celebrations of life, testament to the coexistence of the sacred and the secular, a reminder that life is a mosaic of encounters, occurrences and circumstances, and the key lies in embracing the full spectrum of experiences, from the reverent to the carefree, from the introspective to the exuberant.