There is an intriguing amalgamation of old and new styles in Taipei's Wanhua District as scooters and cars swiftly pass alongside the Bopiliao Historic Block, with its low-rise red brick buildings.
The block is all that remains of the original neighborhood with history stretching from the Qing Dynasty through the Japanese colonial era and the Republic period.
During the Qing Dynasty, there were three major maritime trading hubs in Taiwan, Monga (Wanhua), Fucheng in Tainan and Lukang in Changhua.
Different architectural styles are blended together here and rich cultural traditions from all three periods.
This was a densely inhabited area for hundreds of years and one of the main commercial centers.
It was also a favourite choice of accommodation for travelers. In this area there were indeed quite a few inns where farmers selling their products in the city could rest or sleep overnight.
Walking around the historic block, one of the first things you're confronted with are the storefronts of Guangzhou Street.
The traditional street houses are lined one next to the other and you can appreciate their architectural features and details standing in front of them, trying to spot at the same time all the differences in their architectures.
One of the first structures is the old peat coal market. Before the existence of gas, electricity and water heaters, cooking, showering and boiling water required charcoal for fire. Producers of charcoal manufactured it up in the mountains and transported it to the various shops in town and to the market for distribution.
One of the most refined buildings is the one located on 151 Guangzhou Street: the three-story cement building is the tallest on the block and was reconstructed in the early years of the Republic of China and built using reinforced concrete, a newly introduced construction material at the time.
The decorative elements of the buildings in Guangzhou Street may prove inspiring for creative minds, especially for fashion designers looking for ideas (embroideries, for example) to embellish their creations, but also for jewelry designers (do not underestimate the various differences between the windows of the houses on the block, an idea that could be turned into a sort of theme for a project – keep in mind the windows in the Brooking Collection of Architectural Detail…).
There are a lot of elements to admire here: verandas built to protect people from the rain so that they could walk even in a heavy downpour, while business could continue to operate; the textures of the materials and the red bricks (that also characterise Taipei's Red House) of different shapes and sizes, quite a few of them engraved with the letters T, R and S.
The block featured long and narrow structures where vital businesses were located. The stores fueled the local economy, but were also homes to the people who ran them: usually there was a wall dividing the front and back into the storefront and the living area.
The block was re-opened in 2009 to promote art, culture and architecture and discover the stories or the people behind the buildings.
Xiuying Teahouse was for example a gathering place for the local neighborhood, residents would go there to relax and chat; Dr. Asho Ro's House sheds instead light on the life of a doctor who practiced in Xinzhuang and led researches on opium before moving back here to open the renowned Huaian Hospital (located at the intersection of Kangding Road and Guangzhou Street).
Walking around the block you may also stumble upon interesting exhibitions that try to create a continuum between the early memories of this area and modern stories of local craftspeople who established their businesses in the area and ran them for generations.
Current displays encourage visitors to discover the history of the Fu Datong Tea Shop and the tea local culture; Longshan Buddhist Arts Shop, with the sculptors continuing to make religious symbols providing believers with spiritual comfort; Lao Ming Yu's incense shop, and the story of incense makers, Fu Shan bamboo steamers and Taipei Tang's confectionery.
One of the most extensive display is dedicated to the printing industry in Wanhua with the story of the Sun Book Binding Factory. Founded during Japanese Colonial Rule, its practices were passed down for three generations.
In the early days, the process of manufacturing a book required many different people and materials and in these streets the pages of books were compiled and put together before being shipped out. Wanhua printers helped Taiwan's publishing industry flourishing.
Historically Wanhua is where Taipei began, but in modern times it was also one of the areas that suffered the most: the Covid-19 pandemic hit it hard and forced many businesses to close down in rapid succession.
Yet there is a lesson here: this area experienced expropriation, urban renewal and restoration, prompting visitors to reflect on the transformative nature of crises.
We all encounter our own individual challenges, yet, concealed within these red bricks standing undaunted, is an eloquent reminder that we, too, can find the strength within ourselves to rise once more when we encounter life's challenges and rise again after our setbacks.
