Light and Technological Fabrics |

The Parisian shows end in a couple of day's and it is now a bit easier to spot the main trends for the next Spring season. One of such trends is pointing towards light and technological fabrics.

In London we have seen Richard Nicoll who, sponsored by Walt Disney and inspired by Peter Pan's fairy Tinker Bell, opened his show with a flapper slipdress made with an optical fibre-based fabric by Studio XO, well-known for making costumes for performers à la Lady Gaga.

There were further hints at the future in his iridescent designs like miniskirts and anoraks, but the rest of the collection revolved around a sporty mood (Nicoll collaborated with activewear brand Sweaty Betty) thanks to casual shorts, long camisoles, soft knits and jersey tops, functional all-in-ones with a touch of menswear tailoring about them and relaxed (though at times bland) satin evening dresses.

Nicoll's optical fibre dress was nothing new to Italians, though: in Milan, fashion designer Federico Sangalli has actually been experimenting for a while with an optical fibre-based organza, creating the "Light My Night" gown, a dress that gradually lights up becoming more brilliant in the dark.

During Milan Fashion Week, Sangalli took part in an event that mixed theatre and fashion (another trend that we will hopefully analyse in a future post) and paid homage to the divine Italian actress Valentina Cortese.

For the occasion Sangalli came up with an installation at the San Babila Theatre in Milan employing optical fibre fabrics and getting inspired by starry skies and by the stars of the performing arts (Sangalli has a long-standing history of collaborations and projects with Italian dancer Luciana Savignano and American dancer and choreographer David Parson).

The designer also invited the public to see his seamstresses at work at the vintage sewing machines, looms and bobbin lace pillow (that they still use in his atelier) in the space linking his atelier to the San Babila Theatre.

"A lot of people just talk about traditions and innovation, but I try to actually combine these words and put them into practice in my designs, that's why I wanted to give people the chance to see real craftspeople at work," Sangalli told Irenebrination.

During Milan Fashion Week Mrs Cortese donned a Sangalli cape to recite L'Amore (Love) by Giovanni Testori at the San Babila Theatre (rumours say we will wear it again for the opening at La Scala, so keep your eyes open if you're around…).

"Mrs Cortese is 94, but she is a lioness on stage," Sangalli states. "She has an innate chic about her that you can tangibly perceive; her gentle manners fill you with tenderness and compassion and she is still capable of finding amazement in the ordinary."

Mrs Cortese found her futuristic cape by Sangalli unusual and beautiful, but these technological fibres are considered by insiders as pretty challenging as they are quite hard to sew (there are other brands who tried and miserably failed…ask around). Yet it looks like genuine craftspeople with a long experience in classical ateliers can easily work them. "I do believe that traditions can make us see the future in a clearer way, but they can also help us making it come true by suggesting us how to employ the innovative possibilities it offers us at their best," Sangalli concludes.

Looks like we need a couple of lessons from the past to actually be able to create the future…