Visions of Neo-Transformative Summers: Chalayan S/S 2014

We live in a period of constant changes: things move so fast that a new and technological device like a smart phone launched today may become obsolete less than six months later. Even architects whose works consist in designing static buildings that last for several decades, are rethinking the rules and trying to come up with transformative designs, creating spaces that question conventional structures, that give the impression of changing with the light of the day or contribute to the reduction of the environmental impact.

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The theme of transformation is implicit in fashion: we may not dress up every morning to feel like heroes and heroines, but we dress trying to look our best, or to take up different roles in our complex society. In the history of fashion there have been designers experimenting with clothes that may cause body dysmorphia disorder and designers who have tried to suggest more wearable and versatile versions of transformative clothes.

The theme of transformation has always been on Hussein Chalayan's mind: while previous more conceptual collections looked at the possibility of turning furniture into clothes and take them away with you, his Autumn/Winter 2013 collection included more practical designs that transformed from day into evening wear.

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The study of dynamic forces and transformative powers continues in Chalayan's new collection. Entitled "Breeze Corridor", the collection started with a navy-and-white striped strapless dress wrapped like a beach towel that opened onto a swimpiece, and ended with a surprising dress covered in colourful strips attached to a coat that could turn into tailcoats.

In between there were day dresses with blurred images of a tropical beach and seaside prints; summery separates with perforated patterns of palms in neutral colours; sophisticated one shoulder-draped full-length column dresses with sculptural bustlines inspired by the initial beachtowel and marine themes and by sand dunes, accessorised every now and then with transparent wide-brimmed hats carried like parasols on umbrella rods.

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Quite often in fables clothes assume a transformative power: they have indeed the capacity for disguise, masquerade and deception (think about Cinderella empowered by magic clothes…). Chalayan's designs may not be made with fairy tale materials, but their transformative potential points towards new living solutions, active surroundings and modern dynamic women.

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