Yes, so far September hasn’t been the best month of the year financially speaking: Lehman Brothers going bankrupt in America, credit crunch still biting in the UK, Alitalia agonising in Italy. Winds of financial crisis might have swept all over Europe and the rest of the world and yet London was – at least for a week – a nice oasis of happiness thanks to its fashion week.
Despite worries of seeing UK’s main fashion shop window undermined after talks of reducing the number of its days and because of the absence of designers such as Alexander McQueen and Gareth Pugh, London Fashion Week proved once again that the city is rich in talent and able to offer buyers and fashionistas the most exciting emerging designers. So, for six days, Great Britain’s capital was swept by an incredible tsunami of optimism. One of the reasons behind the sheer optimism that invaded the various fashion shows was the return of bright colours, bold prints and mid-‘80s-‘90s inspirations.
Showing his Spring/Summer 09 collection on the last day of London Fashion Week, Ashish reinforced the optimistic atmosphere hanging in the air. Compared to the creations for his current Autumn/Winter 08 collection, this time Ashish went down a sexier and darker route. The emphasis was indeed on noir tones, though his quirky, fun and almost punkish trademark designs still popped up here and there.
There was a mixture of different inspirations and ideas in all the outfits, but the key to the collection was one: urban and chic positivism.
Trousers and tops had a relaxed silhouette but were enriched by fringes of beads; pink and grey fringed flapper dresses were paired with military trench coats in olive green; camouflage prints reappeared in long sequined trench coats with a glamorous edge; backless sequined hoodies evoked urban atmospheres; playful dice prints decorated tops and denim trousers; the shortest denims were juxtaposed to the baggiest Thayaht-like overall entirely covered in badge button pins, that, also used to decorate waistcoats and caps (a fashion trend reminiscent of Acid House), created a visual overloaded effect. Ashish must have had sexy sirens in mind when he designed his short sequined poker card dresses or long silvery gowns ideal for a modern Madam Satan. Winged ankle boots and necklaces with huge A’s completed the outfits.
As a whole Ashish’s show had a refreshing energy about it, that mixed the simplest shapes of Zoran (Ladicorbic)’s minimalist creations with Bob Mackie’s revealing, glamorously beaded and theatrical dresses.
American designer Bob Mackie once stated that glamour is a state of mind, a feeling of self-confidence. Undoubtedly, Ashish’s creations are dedicated to young, sensual and self-confident women with a sharp style, a great sense of irony and, above all, a heightened sense of glamour.
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