Monthly Archives: January 2017

Talking Boyhood: Comme des Garçons’ Homme Plus A/W 17

We are globally living in uncertain and worrisome times, but, on the Parisian menswear runways, Rei Kawakubo tried to suggest there is still a chance to be playful. At least it seemed possible to do so on her Comme des … Continue reading

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Out of the Forest, Into the Trees: Issey Miyake Men’s A/W 17

Quite a few designers looked at the streets and at urban inspirations for their next menswear collections. Yusuke Takahashi at Issey Miyake turned instead to nature and to forests in particular for the A/W 17 season.  While one of the … Continue reading

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The Allure of Corporate Branding: Balenciaga Men’s A/W 17

At the moment it is extremely difficult to understand where fashion is going, especially considering the over-enthusiastic reviews of rather puzzling collections. Vêtements' Demna Gvasalia is for example focused on playing with a persistent "Martin Margiela goes shopping to a … Continue reading

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Writing Poems with the Language of Fabrics: Antonio Marras Men’s A/W 2017 & Pre-Fall 2017

It can be difficult to find the perfect location for a catwalk show nowadays as new collections are presented in the most incredible spaces - from the streets to museums, from architectural institutions to department stores and clubs. Yet, if you have … Continue reading

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Textured Patterns of Colours: Missoni Men’s A/W 17

Streetwear was a strong trend on the runways at London Fashion Week Men's, while, in Milan, Miuccia Prada switched back the clocks to the '70s. Angela Missoni seemed to combine these two moods for the company's next menswear collection. Celebrating … Continue reading

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Normality in Times of Information Overload: Prada Men’s A/W 2017 (and Pre-Fall 2017)

You know what they say, when you hit rock bottom you can only go upward. In the same way, when you overdo things, the best solution is probably to take a step back and maybe opt for simplicity. At least … Continue reading

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Millennial Runway Stardom Starts… With a Reboot of the Hug-a-Pet Bag

Around 1984-85 I fell desperately in love with a Hug-a-Pet bag shaped like a brown bear (in my defence I can say that I was a child at the time, so this was a perfectly understandable affair…). I had a soft … Continue reading

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Arty Symbolism in Bold and Bright Textile Graphics: “Vlisco 1:1 Un à Un” @ The Helmond Museum

In a previous post we explored the celebrations for the 170th anniversary of Vlisco, the Dutch wax company dating back to 1846 when Dutch entrepreneur Pieter Fentener van Vlissingen established a textile company named P.F. van Vlissingen & Co in … Continue reading

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Sportswear for a Dystopian Lifestyle: Cottweiler A/W 17

In some of the previous posts about the latest menswear collections we have seen how there is a pretty strong trend at the moment – sportswear and streetwear inspired by modern urban youth hanging around suburbs, cities or shopping malls.  … Continue reading

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Suprematist Juvenile Delinquents: Gosha Rubchinskiy A/W 17

The words "cool" and "cult" are entering the glossary of the most abused fashion terms, becoming aggravating factors and sources of exasperation in the industry. It seems indeed that if you can be described as a "cool" and "cult" label, … Continue reading

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