Monthly Archives: January 2015

The Glasgow School: Issey Miyake A/W 2015-16

Chanel may have put Scotland on the global fashion map after acquiring Hawick-based cashmere mill Barrie and showing in 2012 its Métiers d'Art catwalk show at Linlithgow castle, but the country definitely had its annus mirabilis last year with the … Continue reading

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The Old Lie, Dulce et Decorum Est Pro Patria Mori: Tailored Military Moods in Fashion

One long chapter in the history of fashion is dedicated to tailors who supplied military uniforms, headgear, helmets, cuirasses, swords, pouches and banners. British historical tailoring businesses such as Gieves and Hawkes catered for example to army officers during the … Continue reading

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The Future of Fashion is Now – Open Call Winners

The Winners of Open Call, part of the public program of the exhibition "The Future of Fashion is Now" at the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam, were revealed last Sunday, final day of the exhibition.  Open Call asked professional and amateur … Continue reading

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(Ad)dressing Urban Features: Fashionable Manholes?

While the Milanese menswear runways were on, the city mayor inaugurated a street – via Gesù – set to become a bit like Savile Row, thanks to its men's stores, including Brioni, Kiton, De Luca Sartoria and Zilli among the … Continue reading

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Uniforming Gender or Designing Uniforms: Prada A/W 2015-16 and Pre-Fall 2015

The Expo 2015 exhibition will be opening in Milan in a few months' time (May 1st) and it is somehow strange that no apparent connection was made with this event on the Milanese menswear runways. A while back it was announced that … Continue reading

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“Baubles” Vs Luxury, Folk Vs Ferragamo

There is a serious problem nowadays when it comes to fashion inspiration allegedly borrowed from art: while some designers actually go on their ways to find an artist or an exhibition they may think visually or historically inspiring, others simply … Continue reading

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Disassembling and Reassembling History: Edmund Ooi A/W 15-16

Last year Malaysian-born but Belgium-based menswear designer Edmund Ooi imagined in his Autumn/Winter 2014/15 a sort of male version of Jane Fonda in Roger Vadim's Barbarella. He did so through strong textures and experimental materials such as wool treated with … Continue reading

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Geometries for the Body: Sharp Vs Soft Angles in Fashion

There are different ways to approach architectural references in fashion. Digital printing has provided quite a few designers with obvious structural references such as well defined and detailed images of buildings and other assorted architectural features. Yet the most interesting … Continue reading

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Menswear Shows: Photographic References as a Micro-Trend?

It may be a bit too early to spot solid trends and micro-trends in the menswear collections for the next Autumnal season as, after London's shows and Florence's Pitti, there are still the Milan and Paris runways to go. Yet … Continue reading

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(Back to) Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion @ GOMA, Brisbane, Australia

It is always interesting to see what happens to an exhibition when it travels to another country. The contents of an event must indeed be adapted to specific spaces that may be smaller or larger compared to the original place … Continue reading

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