Presidential inaugurations present a unique opportunity to explore the intersection of fashion and politics. Through attire, colors, and styles, it is indeed often possible to discern subtle messages about a new presidency and its values.
At yesterday's Inauguration Day ceremony in Washington, DC, most men, including U.S. President-elect Donald Trump, adhered to tradition by donning conservative dark suits, white shirts, and ties. While the colors of their ties varied, often reflecting their political affiliations, as seen with Bill Clinton and Barack Obama, Trump opted for a purple-patterned tie. Despite minor variations, these choices collectively signalled a commitment to formality and tradition, though Trump and Vance drew attention for the unusually long lengths of their ties (well, Trump usually goes for long ties...).
However, it was FLOTUS Melania Trump who got the attention of fashion commentators and critics. Melania, whose relationship with American fashion designers was fraught with tension during Trump's first term, often relied on her stylist Hervé Pierre to source clothing, frequently from European designers. This approach was evident during last November's election season, when she was often spotted wearing Dior. The choice was likely far from coincidental: Dior is part of the LVMH portfolio, a company whose ties to Trump are well-documented.
During Trump's first term, LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault was a guest at Trump's inaugural state dinner and one of the first CEOs to meet with him following the 2017 inauguration. Trump later supported Louis Vuitton's decision to open a production facility in Alvarado, Texas, in 2019. Alexandre Arnault, Bernard Arnault's son and Executive Vice President of Product and Communications at Tiffany & Co., was also spotted at Trump's rally in Madison Square Garden last year.
Many commentators anticipated that Melania Trump would once again choose a European fashion house for her Inauguration Day attire, a preference she had demonstrated during events leading up to the inauguration. For Saturday night’s private reception and fireworks display at the Trump National Golf Club in Potomac Falls, Virginia, she indeed opted for a Dior coat. Similarly, for Sunday's wreath-laying ceremony at Arlington National Cemetery, she chose a black double-breasted Dior cape-style coat.
At the Candlelight Dinner on Sunday night, held at the National Building Museum in Washington, DC, Melania mixed labels, donning a black sequined Carolina Herrera long skirt paired with a Dolce & Gabbana tuxedo shirt. She completed the look with a cummerbund and a floor-length tuxedo-style wool cape from Saint Laurent. Her selection of Carolina Herrera was symbolic, it marked the first time Melania wore an American label during the Inaugural Weekend events, perhaps hinting at her eventual choice for the Inauguration Day ensemble.
During the 2017 inauguration, Melania had her "Jackie Kennedy moment," appearing in a pastel Ralph Lauren ensemble that pointed at softness but perhaps hinted at a latent uncertainty about a role she seemed hesitant to fully embrace.
Fast-forward to yesterday, and the tone has shifted entirely. FLOTUS exuded somber gravitas in a navy and ivory ensemble that felt deliberate and serious. Her tailored navy double-breasted wool coat, matching pencil skirt, and ivory silk crepe blouse were designed by independent American designer Adam Lippes. This marked a notable change, as the outfit projected purpose. Having previously designed outfits for former First Lady Jill Biden to meet Pope Francis and Queen Elizabeth II, Adam Lippes considers himself a bipartisan designer.
Melania accessorized the ensemble with a matching navy hat featuring a white band, created by milliner Eric Javits. Both pieces were handcrafted: according to a statement from Lippes, the outfit was meticulously hand-stitched in New York "by some of America's finest craftsmen," while Javits' hat was similarly labor-intensive, made with precision and care.
Hats for first ladies have a storied history: Jackie Kennedy popularized the trend in 1961 with her iconic Halston-designed pillbox hat, a tradition carried forward by Patricia Nixon in 1969, Nancy Reagan in 1989, and Hillary Clinton in 1993. Melania's navy boater hat, however, carried a distinct message.
Worn low, it cast a shadow over her eyes and face, shielding her from direct interaction and avoiding eye contact with both people and cameras. This stylistic choice made her simultaneously present and yet distant, as though the hat and her somber outfit embodied invisibility (or maybe it was just a way to keep her husband away from her, after all the brim got in the way of a presidential kiss...).
In a way it was as if her stern ensemble symbolized the drastic executive orders signed by a bronzed and bombastic Trump on the first day of his second term as the 47th president of the United States, while the hat seemed to suggest a clear course of action - hide for cover. Among the executive orders were controversial decisions such as withdrawing from the United Nations' World Health Organization (WHO) and the Paris Climate Agreement, moves critics likened to suicide. Other orders included pardoning January 6 defendants, declaring a national border emergency, ending birthright citizenship (a measure that is unconstitutional under the 14th Amendment), and implementing a policy recognizing "only two genders, male and female."
In a bizarre twist, Trump also ordered geographic name changes, renaming the Gulf of Mexico as the "Gulf of America" and reverting Alaska's Mount Denali to its former name, "Mount McKinley." These actions seemed to underscore a retreat from progress and global cooperation.
Considering the nature of the executive orders, hiding behind the safety of a boater hat (by the way, Melania hid behind brimmed hats in other occasions as well, like when she met Macron in 2018) seems like the bare minimum one could do. Actually, when you think about the potential global repercussions of Trump's decisions, that may even embolden far-right counterparts in Europe, you might start to shiver and wonder if a modest boater is insufficient protection. Perhaps a supersized hat, à la Jacquemus, would be more fitting to truly hide from the fallout.
So, while not as blatantly provocative as Melania's infamous Zara jacket from 2018, emblazoned with the phrase "I really don't care. Do u?" during a visit to a child migrant detention center (a message she later clarified was directed at the "left-wing media"), her hat seemed to carry its own message.
Beyond Melania’s choice of accessory, there were other signs at the inauguration hinting at the direction of this presidency. Sitting together in a show of solidarity with the newly elected president were some of the world's most powerful tech figures: Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg, Amazon founder Jeff Bezos, Google CEO Sundar Pichai, and Tesla and SpaceX CEO Elon Musk (who later on, speaking at the Capital One Arena in Washington DC, raised eyebrows when he greeted the predominantly white audience with a gesture that resembled a Nazi salute).
The inauguration also welcomed the family of Bernard Arnault, founder, chairman, and CEO of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Arnault was accompanied by his wife Hélène, daughter Delphine (chairman and CEO of Dior, as well as a member of LVMH's board of directors and executive committee, she must have appreciated the Dior-Melania connections getting stronger), and son Alexandre. The Arnault family had prime seating, just behind former Presidents Bill Clinton, George W. Bush, and Barack Obama. Their presence was remarkable, especially given that it is currently menswear season, with Pharrell Williams' highly anticipated Louis Vuitton menswear runway show scheduled for today in Paris. The family's attendance underscored the significance of their alignment with the Trump administration.
The presence of billionaires and multimillionaires, from tech titans to fashion magnates like the Arnault family, was a clear indicator of the path this presidency is poised to take. Trump's willingness to surround himself with the ultra-wealthy is matched by their eagerness to lend their support to his administration.
As for Melania, will any fashion designers pledge their creative allegiance to her? Some prominent designers, like Marc Jacobs, have openly distanced themselves, but according to Hervé Pierre, European luxury houses have been reaching out to dress the incoming First Lady, seeing the opportunity as a means to boost sales. Still, at the Liberty Ball, there was no gown from a famous Haute Couture house for Melania. Instead, she wore a strapless off-white silk crepe dress featuring two bands of black silk gazar, the gown was designed by Pierre himself.
At the swearing-in ceremony, other women drew the attention of fashion critics. Usha Vance, wife of incoming Vice President J.D. Vance, opted for a soft pink Oscar de la Renta belted coat paired with a scarf.
Ivanka Trump, the President's eldest daughter, selected a Dior Haute Couture forest green cashmere skirt suit (inspired by Monsieur Dior's design "Favori" from his A/W 1950-51 collection View this photo), accessorized with a black Lady Dior handbag (well, looks like Dior and the Trump family will go along well... Dior is even launching in April a capsule collection dedicated to golf, a sport Trump loves). Shame that Ivanka was trying to channel Parisian elegance and the style of Kate Middleton, Princess of Wales, and ended up looking like the insufferable Serena Joy in the series The Handmaid's Tale.
After all she referenced a film also the night of the swearing-in ceremony at the Liberty Ball, when she wore a strapless, custom white Givenchy gown with black lace detailing featuring a full skirt and fitted bodice. It was a homage to the 1954 haute couture silhouette Hubert de Givenchy designed for Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina (in 2022, Ivanka tried to channel Grace Kelly with an ensemble inspired by the 1955 film To Catch a Thief at sister Tiffany Trump's wedding.) This connection with Givenchy, another maison in the LVMH group portfolio, suggests that the fashion houses within the group may be aligning with the Trump family.
Outgoing First Lady Jill Biden chose a purple ensemble, a color associated with unity, echoing Kamala Harris's Inauguration Day attire in 2021 and Hillary Clinton's symbolic purple pantsuit with lapels from her 2016 concession speech.
Yet amidst the vibrant display of wealth, one absence spoke volumes: Michelle Obama, the wife of former President Barack Obama, was notably missing. Her absence embodied the sentiments of those who find themselves unable to stomach this presidency's bombastic display of power and wealth and fear for the struggles that may lie ahead under its policies.
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