Most of us have memories of teachers we disliked in school. However, as a teenager, I had a Latin and Greek teacher at my grammar school whom I adored. I did because she brought out the best in all of us; she encouraged us even though most of us struggled to understand the grammar of dead languages (I'd even say we were hopeless...). Ms. F aimed to help us find beauty in classical literature and let that beauty shape our lives. She had a passion for her subjects and wanted everyone to feel the same emotions she did when she raged with Medea or laughed with Petronius.
Her immense trust in us was remarkable: once, she praised a significant improvement in a written test we had taken in overenthusiastic tones, even though we had still failed it. Yet, she never made us feel unworthy or unintelligent. There was something different in the air during her classes, something special – there was dignity.
But that was a long time ago.
I'm not sure how many of you readers have children of your own or are foster parents or caregivers who feel disappointed by the education system (in many countries around the world, although I can mainly speak for what I've experienced in Italy).
Children with dyslexia, dyscalculia or dysgraphia – learning disorders that can improve with the right tools – become burdens in a classroom, as they are considered slow learners, "forcing" the class to lag behind. They are advised to aim low, work just enough to pass, and even avoid extensive reading or writing, as if it might harm their minds.
Then there are disabilities such as autism or Down syndrome, which seem to simply scare many educators, especially those ones with very little experience and with too many prejudices. This often leads to the isolation of students who end up being considered as unable to fit into our (less-than-) perfect society.
The Greek philosopher Plutarch noted in his "Parallel Lives" how the ancient Spartans, known for their prowess in warfare, would let their weak or disabled children die. Some researches claim there is actually no evidence towards this practice, but in contemporary society, while we may not physically abandon children with disabilities in the woods or throw them off steep rocks, we metaphorically leave them behind because we assume they can't be like everyone else.
In Italy students on the autism spectrum or with Down syndrome can't obtain a school diploma like other kids. They attend school like other students but follow a supposedly specially tailored program (which essentially means the same curriculum with some adjustments) that doesn't allow them to take the final exam and obtain the diploma needed to pursue further education and enrol in a university. Instead, they receive only a certificate stating they attended secondary school for five years. The bizarre thing is that Italian law grants people with disabilities a series of facilitations regarding employment and competitions for jobs in public services. Yet, to access them, you must have a university degree. Now how can you obtain a university degree to access facilitations for employment if you can't obtain the diploma needed to pursue a university degree? It's a mystery left for individuals in this situation to solve.
Bizarrely, one of the places that should include these students – school – excludes them, turning into a toxic environment where hypocritical educators talk about thinking laterally, praise divergent thinking, encourage uniqueness and breaking boundaries fearlessly. Yet, if students with disabilities ask to learn more, they don't receive any support. It's as if these educators watched "Good Doctor" rooting for Shaun, but, when faced with a child on the autism spectrum expressing a desire to become a surgeon, they dismiss it as mere silliness.
The issue is, we often make assumptions. We assume that people with certain disabilities can’t do certain things, like living an ordinary life or learning what others are learning.
An advertisement by non-profit association CoorDown released last week captures this concept better than my words: in the advert a young brazen girl with Down syndrome shows how assumptions that people with Down syndrome can't learn Shakespeare, can't hit hard, can't swear or have sex, cage people in these stereotypes. If we only put more trust in other people, if we put them to the test and pushed together boundaries, we would instead break stereotypes and allow people to grow up as stronger and more confident individuals.
Fashion is one of those industries that makes a lot of assumptions: if you work in it, at some point you may have experienced some form of discrimination. No matter what they tell you, in fashion it's hard to fit in: you're often too fat or too thin; too timid or too outspoken; too superficial or too knowledgeable; too experienced or inexperienced. Whatever. We all have our share of bizarrely hilarious misadventures in fashion discrimination, in my case they aren't so serious, but they range from annoying physical comments to jokes about my Southern Italian accent. The most hilarious one was a PR officer at a tradeshow who took the piss out of me for using a laptop to write rather than a MacBook (well, I've always assumed that the human being makes the machine great and not the other way around and I doubt an essay would write by itself on a MacBook...).
That said, the fashion industry has definitely opened up, becoming more inclusive: in the last few years, for example, we have seen models with Down syndrome on the runway or in campaigns.
Ellie Goldstein, from Ilford, East London, appeared in campaigns by brands such as Gucci Beauty and Nike; she actually made history by being the first model with Down Syndrome to feature in such campaigns and to appear on the covers of Glamour Magazine, Elle, Mission Mag, and Euphoria Mag. Last year, Goldstein was also one of five cover stars of British Vogue's disability issue (May2023), a theme strongly championed by fomer editor-in-chief Edward Enninful.
Last year, Mattel collaborated closely with the US National Down Syndrome Society (NDSS) to create a Barbie doll representing a person with Down syndrome (when the doll came out Goldstein helped launching it). The doll features a shorter frame, a longer torso, and a rounder face with smaller ears, a flat nasal bridge, and almond-shaped eyes, characteristics often associated with individuals with the genetic condition. This Barbie doll wears a puff-sleeved dress in yellow and blue, colors associated with Down syndrome awareness. Additionally, it sports a pink pendant necklace with three upward chevrons, symbolizing the three copies of the 21st chromosome, which is responsible for the traits associated with Down syndrome.
In 2022, Puerto Rican-born Sofia Jirau became the first model with Down syndrome to front a Victoria's Secret campaign for its Love Cloud Collection; while this year a Japanese model with Down syndrome, Nao Saito, made a guest appearance on Samina Mughal's runway during Paris Fashion Week.
Despite the progress made, there are still numerous barriers to break down. Yes, there are a few models with Down syndrome now, but is it possible to push things further? (think about CoorDown's 2021 global awareness campaign "The Hiring Chain" with that message to employers all over the world that hiring a person with Down syndrome not only changes the life of the person concerned, but can trigger a virtuous circle of new opportunities for everyone).
Will we ever see a model with Down syndrome on the Haute Couture runways? Will we witness an artisan with Down syndrome working in a revered atelier? What about a print designer or a textile designer? Or perhaps someone with Down syndrome holding roles such as writer, researcher, stylist, or assistant at a prominent fashion publication?
Will we see collaborations between educational institutions or brands and charities working with people with disabilities (nonprofit GiGi's Playhouse NYC has often organised fun fashion shows for people with Down syndrome to foster a sense of community, but such a concept could be expanded in collaboration with fashion houses and brands); will brands develop dedicated collections (there have been steps towards this direction by some brands, but often the enthusiasm waned), designed in collaboration with people with disabilities? It definitely looks like there are many challenges ahead.
Today marks World Down Syndrome Day (WDSD), a global awareness day officially observed by the United Nations since 2012. The significance of this date lies in the symbolism of WDSD being the 21st day of the 3rd month, chosen to represent the triplication (trisomy) of the 21st chromosome, which causes Down syndrome. This year's WDSD theme is "End The Stereotypes" and it's a beautiful theme - it inspires us to stop assuming and celebrate diversity, inclusion, visibility, and understanding, not just for one day, but for every single day of the year. Because, as human beings, we grow through love, not hate; we thrive when we feel understood and respected and not when we are stuck in an environment that resents and rejects our existence.
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