Transparencies found in nature can provide us with wonderful inspirations, but equally fascinating are the iridescences that grace the interiors of shells, a mesmerizing display of shifting colors and light.
The Anomia ephippium is a great example: this scientific term refers to a species of bivalve mollusk commonly known as "saddle oyster". This mollusk belongs to the Anomiidae family and its delicate shell is characterized by a distinctive shape and appearance, resembling a saddle or a curve. It is often found attached to rocks or other substrates in shallow marine environments. Quite common in the Mediterranean, the interior of the shell features mesmerizing nacre and pseudo-nacre iridescences.
In fashion these shades are often found in synthetic see-through fabrics that, under particular lights, can produce intriguing effects, such as Walter Van Beirendonck’s S/S 24 dresses and shirts characterized by relaxed or romantic silhouettes.
Another example of a textile reproducing the pseudo-nacre iridescences of the Anomia ephippium was featured in Cinzia Ruggeri's A/W 1986-87 collection: the latter included multi-sensorial garments such as designs that smelled like sulfur and edible earrings.
One creation (the last one in this video directed by Gianni Emilio Simonetti), a cropped top with matching mini-skirt with asymmetrical scalloped edges, was made with a semi-rigid synthetic fabric that seemed to mimic the crumpled exterior of Anomia Ephippium and that gave the impression the garments were almost made with ice and had frozen on the body of the wearer.
Hit by light the synthetic fabric produced a pseudo-nacre reflection, recreating the light consistency of a material found in nature (mother of pearl), but also hinting at materials used in other disciplines, including technology, medicine and science.
But, beware, if you think that the crisp Anomia ephippium is just a fragile shell: according to a study published in 2020, the shell of the Anomia possesses an inorganic "pseudo nacre" microstructure, displaying various colors due to organic polyene pigments (in white, yellow, orange, and red hues) that enhance its mechanical protection function.
The study showed indeed that pseudo nacre is actually stiffer than nacre, providing insights into the structure-property relationship of pseudo nacre and suggesting a new direction for creating exceptionally strong biomaterials in the future. Anyone willing to undertake the challenge of developing a pseudo-nacre inspired biomaterial?
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