Fifteen years ago, luxury brands started showcasing their artisanal credentials inviting journalists and bloggers (and, in more recent years, influencers) to visit their factories or hosted events and shows in these locations.
This practice became popular since it allows these fashion houses to prove their commitment to craftsmanship, present their workforce, and showcase their state-of-the-art facilities equipped with modern machinery and eco-friendly technologies.
At times, factories were used as props: in 2010, Giles showcased his collection at the Ginori ceramics factory in Sesto Fiorentino, near Florence, during the Pitti trade show (unfortunately for the workers, two years later the factory went into liquidation).
In a similar vein, Fendi unveiled yesterday its take on Artisanal Intelligence rather than Artificial Intelligence, during a factory tour-cum-fashion show at Pitti Uomo.
For the event, guests were invited to Fendi's leather goods factory in Bagno a Ripoli, just outside Florence, where they were treated to a collection inspired by the tools, instruments, and uniforms of skilled craftspeople.
The collection featured an abundance of topstitched workwear and leather and denim aprons that at times integrated the actual tools used by the workers in crafting Fendi leather bags. Long and short aprons were styled as skirts, while tool belts added an industrial touch to elegant ensembles.
Tools also appeared as prints on shirts, but decorative printed motifs also included diagrams of Fendi bags.
Blue coats, jackets, and denim pieces adorned with the maison's iconic F-logo referenced instead the uniforms of blue-collar workers. The blue jackets and coats brought back memories of the late photographer Bill Cunningham, who would usually wear a worker's jacket for practical reasons and because he considered himself a humble worker.
The denim pieces with the maison's F-logo carved into their surfaces (View this photo) evoked a sense of utility and functionality, while also being reminiscent of the nuances of aizome, a traditional Japanese indigo dyeing technique.
Attention to workwear details was evident, with hammer loops repurposed to secure a tailor's measuring tape on a shirt; accessory highlights ranged instead from bags designed to carry takeaway coffees to paper blend fabric bags and clog-like slingbacks.
In addition, the collection incorporated designs crafted using natural dyes derived from plants, such as vibrant green vests colored with nettles that added an organic and sustainable touch to the overall aesthetic.
The final black looks brought back elegance with halter neck shirting that exposed the back, while tone on tone floral embroideries, inspired by the flowers growing around the factory, replaced industrial tools as decorative motifs. Coats and suits also incorporated basting thread patterns, alluding to tailoring and the internal stitching of bags.
Denim and leather aprons have made their mark in fashion before, with Alexander McQueen's A/W 2009-10 menswear collection (View this photo) showcasing models donning leather aprons that evoked the attire of butchers.
A high-quality apron can actually be a versatile addition to revamp an old look (and it is a great functional piece while travelling...). In fact, if you like this style and you have limited sewing skills, you may still be able to craft your own leather apron with a lot of patience, sharp scissors, and sturdy automatic metal buttons (check out eBay for affordable leather, or go high-quality with leftovers from luxury fashion houses on Nona Source). For what regards the bags, always check out second hand shops, vintage markets and historical hardware stores in other countries, as you may unexpectedly find in these places incredibly durable and functional belt tools and bags that perfectly complement this aesthetic, but that won't break the bank.
For what regards the "Artisanal Intelligence" trend, well, it prompts further contemplation, as, for some aspects, it can be compared to poverty chic.
The latter consists in pretending you're poor while you're actually wealthy enough to be able to buy expensive pre-stressed clothes and accessories. In this case, instead, we will probably end up seeing a few fashionistas and influencers pretending of being artisans or playing at being the protagonist of Elio Petri's Lulu the Tool, without ever having touched a single tool in their lives or without ever having worked in a factory.
This trend and these displays in factories should actually make us all ponder a bit about the concept of craftsmanship luxury brands are promoting. While it is commendable to pay tribute to workers who contribute to their success, many of these factory workers in Italy are employed through temporary work agencies, rather than directly by the brands they produce items for (this system is in place in the Giulianova-based Gensi Group factory owned by Chanel and producing shoes for McQueen and Golden Goose among the others; not sure if Fendi's factory operates under similar circumstances). This arrangement often leaves skilled workers and artisans vulnerable, as they can be dismissed without the fashion house even being aware.
Besides, despite luxury brands praising the craftsmanship and skill of artisans, not many young people aspire to become artisans in today's society, for many different reasons. The allure of being a designer or working in more glamorous roles within the fashion industry often captivates young people who end up being drawn to other aspects of fashion, such as conceptualizing ideas or overseeing the overall vision of a collection, rather than engaging in the physical execution of the garments. After all, in a world driven by technology and digital innovation, the appeal of working with one's hands seems less attractive to some.
Last but not least, artisanal work often requires extensive training, apprenticeships, and years of experience to master the intricate techniques and craftsmanship involved. This path can be financially challenging, as entry-level artisan positions may not offer the same level of financial stability and career advancement as other roles in the industry. Therefore, to encourage the next generation to embrace the artisanal craft, it is essential for luxury brands and the industry as a whole to highlight the value, artistry, and potential for personal fulfillment that can be found in pursuing a career as an artisan.
At the end of the show, Silvia Venturini Fendi walked alongside her artisans, their enthusiasm evident. So there is hope that, in this particular instance, the fairy tale sold at the fashion show-cum-factory tour may truly reflect the reality - a reality where artisans are recognized, appreciated, and celebrated for their contributions to the fashion industry.
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