Irenebrination: Notes on Architecture, Art, Fashion, Fashion Law, Science & Technology

Transformative Fashion Narratives of Resilience: Dzhus A/W 23

We are human beings and therefore dynamic entities, ever-evolving and in constant flux, in transition like unfinished canvases, like perfect or botched masterpieces perpetually in progress. Irina Dzhus' designs flawlessly embody this perpetual state of mutability that characterizes our existence. The previous collections of the Ukrainian designer included indeed creations that could be transformed and readapted to the needs and moods of the wearer thanks to ingeniously placed metal zippers, automatic buttons and press studs.

Yet there was a moment in the life of the designer that marked another and more tragic transformation - the Russian invasion of her home country in February 2022 reshaped Dzhus' life. When the war started in Ukraine, the designer moved to Poland with her pets, leaving her husband and business partner Anatolii Elgert behind as martial law prohibited men to leave the country.

Since then, the production of her collections were split between Poland, Ukraine and Germany, and her experience of the war informed her designs, including her A/W 23 collection "Transit".

Showcased a few months ago during Berlin Fashion Week, Dzhus' new collection features a series of multifaceted garments in monochrome hues, crafted to serve diverse purposes, weather conditions and dress codes.

At Berlin Fashion Week, Dzhus presented a performance with an emphasis on metamorphosis, with models transforming their garments in front of the audience.

The theme of transformability in this collection references the human condition in general, but mainly hints at the drastic changes endured by the Ukrainian people.

The designer thought about how the war has divided every Ukrainian's life into a "before" and an "after". Yet, facing circumstances beyond their control, Ukrainians showed remarkable resilience.

Over a year has gone since the beginning of the war, but, through adversity, Ukrainians still emerge as strong and with their gaze fixed resolutely upon the future.

Thinking about her home country and compatriots, who endured profound loss and embraced new incarnations of themselves in the pursuit of survival, Dzhus reinvented them as superheroes and looked at the changes they went through in a symbolic way.

In Dzhus' A/W 23 collection, dresses, jackets and coats incorporate scarves and hoods that can be used to form cocooning shapes around the body; sleeves turn into hoods and vests while a hat can be turned into a bag, a bag into a long dress and trousers can transmute into dresses and jackets.

A T-shaped monumental white garment almost worthy of a guardian angel yet in reality not by sacred and ethereal garments but by bulletproof-vests and protective gear, incorporates multiple pockets, turning into a symbolic emblem of unwavering protection for a nation that cannot be broken; in other cases aggregates of pockets give shape to a design.

The pockets and bags in this collection are allegorical vessels: they symbolize indeed the arduous evacuation endured by millions of Ukrainians who carried with them only that which they could carry.

At times, as Irina Dzhus explains in the notes accompanying her collection, they preferred to carry things that were symbolic to them rather than practical stuff.

Rather than architectural designs, Dzhus created through inventive patterns tectonic silhouettes in which panels of fabrics form layered silhouettes that can expand into space or contract and even reduced to the smallest possible size and even turned into jewelry. Textured cottons, diaphanous rayons and light knits are combined in this collection in which utilitarian unisex silhouettes prevail.

In the video lookbook for this collection, accompanied by a soundscape of air raid sirens that chill your blood, the designer also shows how each garment can be transformed through strategically placed zips.

Collections inspired by mutations and transformations or migration flows are not new in fashion: Hussein Chalayan created throughout the seasons, transformative designs and costumes.

Besides, his "After Words" (A/W 2000-01) collection was inspired by people fleeing from Kosovo during the war and carrying their possessions on their backs. Models during that show removed the covers from chairs and turned them into dresses; in the most iconic part of that show a model stepped into the centre of a 1950s-style coffee table, lifted it up and transformed it into a skirt. In this way the refugee theme was linked to the idea of hiding and camouflaging valuable possessions or carrying them along in flight.

The final meaning of Dzhus's collection is not just a physical transformation, instead, but it is a metaphor, an evocative allusion to the metamorphosis of the human spirit under the implacable influence of extraordinary circumstances, often demanding heart-rending choices.

The utilitarian approach and the multi-purpose transformations in this collection assumed a more heightened conceptual meaning than in the brand's previous designs such as the A/W 2022 collection, that was accompanied by a photoshoot featuring models in dimly lit surroundings, a reference to the blackouts that have become norm in war-stricken Ukraine.

Dzhus recently resumed production in Kyiv and, since the war began, has been donating 30% of its profit to the Ukrainian army and to animal shelters.

Image credits for this post

All images in this post copyright DZHUS.

Architectural Designs with Function: Claire McCardell's "Popover" Dress Vs Bruno Munari's "Bookshelf" Vest

When discussing architectural designs, our minds often envision rigorously cut minimalist pieces. However, it's important to remember that functionality is a key aspect of architectural fashion. Bearing that in mind, let's explore two types of functional designs that incorporate pockets, combining style and practicality.

The first one is Claire McCardell's "Popover" dress. Conceived as the answer to a challenge by Harper's Bazaar that consisted in creating a dress that could transition from housework to cocktail party, the design was launched in 1942. The Second World War prompted countries to introduce fabric rationing, so at the time there was a desire for utility-wear and adaptable designs.

Moving from practical pockets in men's clothing, McCardell came up with a simple topstitched dress in grey fabric with a wraparound front, a deep pocket and an attached oven mitt (it was sold attached to the dress).

The publicity photo accompanying it (by Louise Dahl-Wolfe) showed a model wearing the "Popover" dress with one hand in an oven mitt and the other in the pocket, with the headline "I'm doing my own work - and what's more I'm doing it well" that referred to women whose servants had gone into war work, leaving them to cope with chores alone.

Originally the design was indeed designed to be "popped over" something nicer when doing housework; then it became a dress in its own right, ideal to be worn alone as a house dress or a beach wrap, that could easily transition also into the evening. One advert described it as "the original utility fashion", the ideal design to be "equally at home in the kitchen, at play or outdoors".

Sold at $6.95, the dress, classified as a "utility" garment, was a success: in the first year of production Townley (McCardell worked as an assistant to Robert Turk at Townley Frocks, but took his place after the designer's untimely death) sold 75,000 dresses and the design was acclaimed by the American Fashion Critics Association.

Outlasting the war, the patented "Popover" remained in the market for years: from then on McCardell added a version of the dress in every subsequent collection she did, reissuing it in different fabrics, including denim and gingham.

McCardell may not have had the skills of French couturiers, but she didn't need them as she was into more versatile and relaxed designs that catered for the average American women. Her clothes that achieved practicality through inventiveness, were affordable and guaranteed functionality - you could indeed use the pocket of the "Popover" dress to carry around the bare necessities and the buttons around the waist to attach the oven mitt to the dress while cooking. Design with function was the principle that Bruno Munari also had in mind when the Mantua-based publishing house Corraini asked him to design a display stand to showcase the pocket-sized volumes of the "Block Notes" series.

Rather than coming up with an interior design pieces, Munari created a vest incorporating different-sized pockets in a variety of textiles and textures that prompted the wearers to experience knowledge through all their senses, from sight to touch.

The bookshelf-vest has now been re-edited through a collaboration between Corraini Edizioni and sustainable design brand Blue of a Kind.

The 1992 version of the vest,  in gray fabric and with pockets that closed with buttons, was reinvented in two colours, in "Dilma" pink (named after Munari's wife) and in upcycled blue denim fabric recovered from vintage garments and incorporating responsibly produced textiles and yarns such as Tencel™ Luxe and Refibra by Lenzing. The design (available to pre-order – delivery starts in July) comes with a booklet explaining its history and with a few books by Munari books to slip in the pockets. 

 

The convergence of function and practicality is evident in these two thoughtfully designed creations. Can you think of an architectural design that has consistently been reissued and that remains popular specifically for its functionality? It's not an easy task to find it, actually, which proves that architecturally functional designs that truly stand the test of time are not so common.

Spatial Perspectives for Theatres & Fashion: "Luciano Baldessari. Architectures for the Stage" @ The Fondazione Giorgio Cini, Venice

Visiting the Fondazione Giorgio Cini on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice requires some planning. Visitors are required to book in advance and through the foundation's site or, as an alternative, book once they get there, but exclusively online, so it is vital to have a mobile device with an Internet connection with you and, obviously, a credit card.

Tours are guided by a facilitator escorting the visitors around the building, while explanations or historical notions are delivered via an app on an individual smartphone that visitors receive when the tour starts.

This arrangement is in place as the Fondazione includes a functioning library and a research centre, besides the venue can be hired for private events, so visitors are required to maintain silence and refrain from making excessive noise. The arrangement also implies that, if there is an exhibition in some of the spaces of the Fondazione, there are only a few minutes to see it, which can be rather annoying.

At the moment, for example, there is an exhibition of drawings by Luciano Baldessari in one of the cells (the Fondazione is located in the spaces previously occupied by a Benedictine monastery) along the Manica Lunga Library.

Restored by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi, the Manica Lunga was built in the 15th century by Giovanni Buora and served as the dormitory of the Benedictine order on the Venetian island of San Giorgio (the entrances to the cells where the monks used to sleep can still be seen along the narrow central corridor of the Manica Lunga).

"Luciano Baldessari. Architetture per la scena" (Luciano Baldessari. Architectures for the stage, until 26th November in conjunction with the Biennale Architettura 2023), actually features drawings for a variety of projects and also includes his Luminator mannequin-lamp.

Curated by Anna Chiara Cimoli, lecturer at the University of Bergamo, the compact exhibition occupies only one room of the ex-dormitory and showcases the artistic contributions of an influential yet often overlooked figure in 20th-century architecture and design.

This project aims to shed light on his innovative approach and delve into his involvement with the historical avant-gardes across Europe and the United States.

Luciano Baldessari was born in 1896 in Rovereto where he completed his studies. He trained in Rovereto as a Futurist artist at Luigi Comel's school, alongside Depero, then in Vienna (where he completed technical studies in 1916), and Milan (where he graduated from the Politecnico in 1922).

From 1922 to 1926, he spent an extended period in Berlin, where he apprenticed, becoming acquainted with the great artists, actors, scenographers, and architects of the time. It was during this period that he consistently worked in theater, creating vibrant set designs.

After a brief spell in Paris, he returned to Milan in 1929, where he would remain until the outbreak of World War II. Around this period he worked on a series of installation including the Silk Exhibition at Villa Olmo in Como (1927), the Bernocchi Pavilion at the 10th International Fair in Milan (1929), Bar Craja (1930), and the Ultimoda DAF store (1935-1936). In the 1940s, Baldessari moved to New York, where he mainly worked as a set designer for the theatre.

Largely forgotten, probably because he was an eclectic figure who refused to be pigeonholed and to belong to associations and corporations, Baldessari is now being rediscovered through exhibitions and through the digitalisation of his drawings and sketches (sourced from the collection of Milan-based CASVA-Centro di Alti Studi per le Arti Visive).

This comprehensive overview at the Fondazione Cini highlights Baldessari's notable contributions to set design from the 1920s to the 1940s, showcasing his collaborations with renowned figures, including Max Reinhardt (for Shakespeare's "Hamlet", 1923-24, and George Bernard Shaw's "Saint Joan", 1924), Riccardo Zandonai ("Giuliano", 1927), Tatiana Pavlova and Luigi Chiarelli.

In the exhibition at the Cini Foundation there are also sketches for Rossini's "Guglielmo Tell" (1929), Luigi Pirandello's "Six Characters in Search of an Author" (1932) and "Henry IV" (1944) and Claude Debussy's "Pelléas et Mélisande" (1941-44) for the Mexico City Theatre.

Baldessari designed dynamic sets and scenes in which chiaroscuro techniques were employed to animate the various spaces and environments. The architect also had a penchant for creating on his sets hidden spaces around corners and curves, playing in this way with perspectives and building more complex environments.

There are several connections between Baldessari and fashion: between the two World Wars, the architect worked on installations for the textile industry.

This connection started after he met in 1927 textile industrialist Carlo De Angeli Frua, who enlisted him to design the Cantoni showroom in Milan (1929), the DAF stand at the 4th Triennale in Monza (1930), the 1st National Fashion Exhibition in Turin (1933), the 5th and 6th Triennale in Milan (1933 and 1936), the DAF Pavilion at the International Fair in Milan (1936), and the window shop of Ultimoda DAF in Milan (1935-1936).

The work for the textile manufacturing company represented for Baldessari an opportunity to create commercial installations with a theatrical twist about them. The architect employed fabrics to dynamically shape the space he was designing, as if they were key elements of the theatrical mise-en-scène. Besides, there is also an arty intention behind his textile installations: the fluttering silk fabrics in the Silk Exhibition at Villa Olmo in Como (1927), the long drapes in the Bernocchi Pavilion at the 10th International Fair in Milan and the Italian Textile Stand at the International Expo in Barcelona (1929) were meant to create vibrant brushstrokes of colour that interacted with the sparse elements of furnishings, softening their angularity.

For Baldessari his textile installations weren't mere structures to display objects, but they themselves were an exhibition. In the space outlined in the sketches and archival photographs, the fabric-carrying mannequins stand out as protagonists of the scene.

In one case (the Como exhibition in 1927) Baldessari employed the sculptural creations of Ukrainian avant-garde sculptor Alexander Porfyrovych Archipenko; in others he integrated his Luminator lamp.

The Luminator mannequin-lamp-sculpture (currently produced by Codiceicona) is the perfect synthesis of Baldessari's main interest - blurring the boundaries between dance, theatre, design and fashion as well.

The Luminator was indeed supposed to be a textile support, but looked like a statue, yet it could move as it could rotate and spin like a dancer, but was as functional as a design object should be and could illuminate a space and create unusual light refractions.

Originally presented at the 1929 Universal Exhibition in Barcelona, it paid homage to the Futurist movement while also reflecting the influences of Bauhaus culture that Baldessari absorbed during his time in Berlin.

Baldessari reached the peak of inventive complexity in the visionary drawings of 1940 for Elizabeth Arden's Fashion Theater in New York: some of them are included in this exhibition and show a theater space conceived in a classical manner with a frontal stage but enriched with pictorial inserts on the ceiling and side walls.

Baldessari populated Arden's fashion theatre with metaphysical mannequins and mannequin-shaped Luminators, elements that created a polysymphonic composition.

Other more scenographic drawings depict overlapping levels, axonometric cross-sections that introduce fantasy universes populated by female figures in long dresses and wide-brimmed hats and strange animals.

A tripartite drawing shows an exhibition system (possibly for fashion accessories) with zenithal lighting, that pre-dated the use of this solution in art exhibitions organised in the '50s.

Even though, this is an extremely compact event, it offers some insights into the life and works of Luciano Baldessari, inviting visitors to explore the intersections of art, design, and architectural innovation that defined his career.

Thinking you may miss it? Don't despair: the materials on display at the Cini Foundation are preserved in the Baldessari Archive at CASVA, and most of them can be checked online. In fact the archive allows to discover even more works - including projects for textile fairs, designs for shops such as the shoe store Calzaturificio di Varese, and fashion events like the Fashion Exhibition at Venice's Hotel Excelsior in 1928 - that may prove inspiring especially for designers interested in developing spaces with a theatrical twist about them for retail, trade shows, and expos.

Image credits for this post

All images by Anna Battista except:

7. Hamlet, 1923-1924
Watercolor ink and watercolor on paper, CASVA-Comune di Milano.
Theatrical set design for Hamlet by William Shakespeare (Act I, Scene V), for Max Reinhardt, not realized.

8. Henry IV, 1930
Tempera on paper, CASVA-Comune di Milano.
Theatrical set design for Henry IV by Luigi Pirandello, not realized.

12. Giuliano, 1927
Pastel on paper, CASVA-Comune di Milano.
Theatrical set design for Giuliano by Riccardo Zandonai (Act II), not realized.

13. Il vascello fantasma, 1928
Watercolor and pencil on paper, CASVA-Comune di Milano.
Theatrical set design for Il vascello fantasma by E. Lothar-Richter, performed at Teatro Olimpia in Milan on June 25, 1928. Directed by Tatiana Pavlova.

15. Modernità, 1925
Pencil on paper, CASVA-Comune di Milano.
Cinematic set design for Modernità, not realized.

16. The Knights of Ekebù, 1929
Watercolor ink on beige paper, CASVA-Comune di Milano.
Theatrical set design for The Knights of Ekebù by Riccardo Zandonai, not realized.

17 - 18. DAFMI stand, Italian Fashion Exhibition, Turin, 1933

19. Bernocchi Pavilion and Luminator, International Fair of Milan, 1929

23 - 24. Elizabeth Arden's Fashion Theater, 1940
Pencil on paper, CASVA-Comune di Milano.
Design for Elizabeth Arden's Fashion Theater in New York.

26. Henry IV, 1944
Tempera on paper, CASVA-Comune di Milano.
Theatrical set design for Henry IV by Luigi Pirandello, not realized.

Glowing Spectacle: Inspiring Phosphorescent Nuances in Carmelo Bene's Salome (1972)

Nicolás García Uriburu, a pioneer of land and ecological art, made an artistic intervention in Venice in June 1968. Using an ecologically harmless organic dye developed by NASA for scientific purposes called Fluorescein, he died the waters of Venice's Grand Canal green.

This action, although not officially part of the 34th Venice Biennale program, was carried out in conjunction with the event to draw attention to the relationship between nature and civilization and to promote ecological consciousness as an integral part of culture.

Through his action, the artist transformed the landscape of the Italian city for a single day, as the waters of the Grand Canal glowed in fluorescent green until the dye gradually dissipated with the ebbing tide.

At the moment of writing this piece, authorities have launched instead an investigation into the origin of a peculiar phosphorescent green liquid that surfaced on Sunday morning around Venice's Rialto Bridge. The mysterious occurrence sparked different conjectures, ranging from potential pollution sources to the involvement of climate activists (though it would be fascinating if it were caused by luminescent bacteria, it's likely attributable to a dye used to trace water leaks).

Despite their association with synthetic substances and their potentially suspicious appearance, phosphorescent shades possess a captivating and inspiring quality.

Uriburu's intervention in Venice can prompt an imaginative exploration into the potential of such shades, or you can maybe check out other artworks or even films in which glowing luminescent hues dominate, such as Salome (1972) by Carmelo Bene.

The story is taken from a passage in the Gospels of Mark and Matthew about the martyrdom of John the Baptist. John warned Herod about the immoral nature of his union with Herodias (who had been married to Herod's brother).

During a banquet held for Herod's birthday, Salome, Herodiad's daughter, danced for the guests. Herod liked her so much that he offered her anything she desired in return and her mother suggested Salome to ask for John the Baptist's head.

Carmelo Bene's film is a sort of hallucination: it opens with a vision of model Veruschka covered in multi-coloured crystals, but the bright and vivid colours of the gems adorning her body soon mutate into even more striking and vibrant hues in a scene featuring Jesus Christ.

During the Last Supper, Jesus turn into a vampire after revealing to the apostles the name of the one who will betray him. While the apostles go mad and begin tearing apart a flock of lambs with their bare hands, Jesus embarks on a long pilgrimage.

This scene has got a Pop Art quality about it: the Last Supper is indeed drenched in bright luminescent shades and the apostles also wear colourful robes. Their sleeves feature a unique twist: they seem indeed to have a flat and rigid lining, creating the illusion the characters are part of a flat tableaux vivant.

These captivating robes exhibit contrasting phosphorescent shades, with one apostle donning a vivid violet robe accentuated by a yellow lining, while another wears a blue robe enhanced by an orange lining.

Then the scene transitions to the grandeur of Herod's palace. Herod has captured Iokanhaan (John the Baptist) who appears as an elderly man, terrified and battered by the slaps of the lustful guests.

The intervention of Salome, the daughter of Herodias, saves the prophet. Salome is astonished by Iokanhaan's brave and nonconformist way of speaking and desires to see him again, despite being called back numerous times by her father's counselor.

From an enormous basket in a pool of water, the Baptist reappears, and upon seeing Salome, he incessantly insults her in the dialect of Puglia. Instead of getting angry, Salome takes pleasure and becomes infatuated with him. After one last outburst of anger, he is locked away, while Herod, surrounded by orgies of food and sex, continues his banquet.

Herod, blinded by desire, manages to persuade Salome to dance for him and the film concludes with the scene of the dance of the seven veils interspersed with images of a Christ attempting self-crucifixion.

Carmelo Bene's film is based on his 1964 stage adaptation of Salome, that featured a set covered in Persian carpets with incense burners, candlesticks and large palm plants, elements that contributed to create an exotic yet decadent environment.

In the theatrical performance that had some clownish elements and also referenced Elizabethan revenge tragedy, the costumes revolved around a red palette.

The range of colours became more vibrant as the stage adaptation of Salome underwent a  transformation for the big screen.

For the film Bene moved from Oscar Wilde's unfinished "La Sainte Courtisane" and "Salome"; besides, he also took inspiration from the figure of Salome in Jules Laforgue's "Moralités légendaires".

The three texts generate here a proliferation of characters and anachronistic effects. Here we have the opposition between Myrrhina (Verushka) and Salome (Donyale Luna); the continuous appearance of the Christ-Vampire (Franco Leo); the dual nature of Herodias (portrayed by Lydia Mancinelli and Alfiero Vincenti), the improbable Iokanaan expressing himself in a southern Italian dialect (Giovanni Davoli) and Herod (Carmelo Bene).

In the film Salome is initially the object of Herod's gaze and desire, but everything changes rapidly and soon she takes control over Herod. Watched, desired and objectified by the Tetrarch throughout the entire feast, Salome turns towards the end of the film into its director and cinematographer.

Shot in Cinecittà and showcased at the 33rd Venice International Film Festival, the film caused a scandal as it was deemed blasphemous. Yet this hallucinated, multifaceted and baroque film with some kitsch and grotesque twists proves fascinating for its frantic editing cuts that keep on interrupting the flow of images and for its use of colours and patterns.

In contrast to the Art Nouveau-style illustrations by Beardsley, which accompanied the first English edition of Wilde's text, Bene imagines Herod's feast through Pop Art and neo-Baroque elements.

The film stands out primarily for its abundance of shimmering hues and for its chromatic richness. The costumes and sets by Gino Marotta, featured solarized lighting effects or, in darker scenes, scenic elements that shone like glitter or that incorporated vibrant colors that often seem on the verge of detaching from their objects.

Some examples of these light and chromatic effects include Myrrhina's face covered in colored crystals, but also the representation of the Last Supper, and the glowing madness of Herod's palace, immersed in the darkness but lit up by the fluorescent elements of the set.

The mosaic-like decorative motifs and patterns on the fabrics, on the objects surrounding the characters and on the floor of the space in which they move (often shot from a distance or from above to show us its magnificent phosphorescent decorations), were created using 3M's Scotchlite coloured adhesive tape.

The retroreflective material was cut into squares, triangles and rectangles and applied to the costumes of Herod and his servants, but it was also used to enhance the palm fronds in the background and the objects (chalices, carpets and a chess set) inside Herod's palace.

Besides, reflective materials were employed for the robe of Herodiad, represented like and angel, and for the armours donned by some of the characters populating Herod's palace.

Hit by light, the reflective materials produced the bright and intense colours desired by Bene that stand out very vividly creating an awe-inspiring and disturbing display of luminosity. These resplendent hues, imbued with a captivating brilliance, command attention and evoke a profound sense of visual allure.

The effect is kaleidoscopically mesmerising, it captivates the viewers' gaze and immerses them in a realm of vivid splendor as sometimes a scene is shot in complete darkness, but the elements covered in Scotchlite shine bright enhancing the scenes, illuminating them with garishly vibrant colour and strong contrasts.

The deliberate contrast between the vivid hues and the muted ambiance creates a striking visual tension, enveloping the viewers in a captivating interplay of lights and shadows.

Bene ventured even further to create his mesmerizing visual experience and deftly incorporated in his scenes also enamels on plexiglass, a technique that amplified the visual impact, and employed a masterful command of extreme close-ups, magnifying the smallest of details with meticulous precision. 

The multisensory experience created by all these vivid hues took the viewer on a journey of visual discovery, pre-dating the trend for fluorescent shades that characterised the '80s (think Slava Tsukerman's 1982 Liquid Skies).

The costumes in the film find echoes in the luminous attires seen on the ecclesiastical runway in Fellini's Roma (1972), but they also call to mind the first experiments with phosphorescent materials in fashion and in particular Capucci's 1965 designs embellished with phosphorescent rosary beads. So, let these luminous shades illuminate your imagination and the phosphorescent hues be your muse, guiding you towards new artistic glowing horizons. 

Open for Maintenance: The German Pavilion @ The 18th International Architecture Exhibition - La Biennale di Venezia

Upon stepping into the German Pavilion at the 18th International Architecture Exhibition in Venice (until 26th November 2023), visitors to last year's Art Biennale will experience a peculiar sense of déjà vu.

That's not because the installation in the German Pavilion - entitled "Open for Maintenance" - is inspired by anything they may have seen in Venice in 2022, but it is because the building has been turned into a sort of warehouse storing materials from last year's Biennale.

Inspired by the Instandbesetzung (squatting and maintaining) movement of 1980s Berlin, the curatorial team Arch+ / Summacumfemmer / Büro Julian Grebe collected leftover materials from the 2022 Art Biennale and, with the passion of forensic experts, catalogued and labelled them. Then, neatly arranged and stacked, the materials were displayed in the pavilion.

Organizing a Biennale in Venice, as you may guess, is no mean feat: artworks and exhibition materials must first be shipped to the city; then they are moved to their exhibition locations by cart, hand or boat.

Only a fraction of these materials is then reused as storage locations in the city are scarce and logistics costs sky-high. Most discarded materials go straight to the nearest landfill or recycling facility.

Saving the materials from almost 40 national pavilions and exhibitions from the landfill and moving them to the German Pavilion was a physically demanding process carried out in collaboration with Rebiennale / R3B.

The local platform offers a variety of services and aims at reducing waste and assists curators in the delicate phases of assembling and disassembling the various installations.

There is a bit of everything inside the German Pavilion, from wood from the Switzerland Pavilion to acrylic glass boxes from the Central Pavilion at the Giardini, while the thick black woolen fabric and the structural red and black timber come respectively from the Uruguay and the Chile Pavilion.

Among the most visually striking debris (but also the most polluting ones...) there are the royal blue flocked styrofoam panels and columns from the Israel Pavilion.

As you walk among the stacks of fibre cemented panels, steel pipes, rolls of faux fur and assorted carpets, you start realizing the impact on the environment that the various installations may have and the importance of recycling materials.

Each lot is labelled with a QR code: the materials were indeed inventoried and included in a digital database developed in collaboration with Concular, a Germany-based start-up matching the demand and supply of construction materials.

An undercurrent of dark irony pervades the space: the curatorial team refers indeed to the materials as "spolia" from the other pavilions.

The word refers to the practice of repurposing or reusing architectural elements, remnants, fragments, sculptures, or decorative materials from earlier structures or civilizations in the construction or renovation of new buildings.

Yet the etymology of the word derives from Latin and indicates the act of stripping an enemy of their weapons and armor after a victory and displaying the "spoils" or "booty" of the conquered. Here we are not talking about enemies, but about fellow artists, designers and creative minds, and the glorious "booty" actually amounts to a variety of materials that some of us may consider as worthless.

"Open for Maintenance" is therefore not an exhibition, but a way to transform the pavilion into a productive infrastructure. The curatorial theme maintained the pavilion as it was found, leaving untouched Maria Eichhorn's contribution "Relocating a Structure" for last year's Art Biennale (Eichhorn's intervention revealed the traces of various remodelling stages that transformed the Bavarian Pavilion into the German Pavilion). Yet the team also made some architectural modifications to the space, adding for example a ramp outside the building.

In 1938, the Bavarian Pavilion, originally built in 1909, underwent a transformation by German architect Ernst Haiger to align with Nazi ideology. This resulted in the creation of a monumental architectural structure with one notable feature - the presence of four large fluted Doric columns on its portico, elevated by five steps from the Giardini grounds.

This architectural manifestation proudly embodied an ideology of superiority and power, promoting a vision that excludes and marginalizes bodies other than those deemed "healthy".

The curatorial team addressed this exclusionary aspect by introducing a semicircular access ramp. This feature serves to improve accessibility not only for individuals with reduced mobility but also for cleaning personnel, guards, and technicians who require heavy equipment.

The addition of the ramp creates a new public podium that was activated by the inclusive Forward Dance Company by Lofft - Das Theater, at the Pavilion's opening event.

The team also included a toilet: a sanitary infrastructure was missing in the building and the new all-gender urinal (that offers tools for changing diapers as well) opens a debate on the lack of a sewer system in Venice where most toilets are directly emptied into the canals.

The pavilion now also includes a kitchenette, with walls covered in posters, leaflets, and other communication materials. This space is devised as a communicative switchboard to promote the work surrounding the social struggles by organizations based in Venice and in Germany as well.

There are two other spaces inside the pavilion that will be activated in the next few months: the workshop area and the meeting space.

According to the curatorial team, practicing architecture in future will mean, first and foremost, repairing that which already exists.

Maintenance and repair require tools, knowledge, and techniques and here people will find a variety of tools in a fully equipped workshop space.

The tools will be used during the Maintenance 1:1 workshop program that will carry out a series of interventions involving grassroots organizations from various countries (including the local Assemblea Sociale per la Casa), university students and crafts apprentices who will help to maintain, repair, and care for social infrastructures across Venice.

Participants will upgrade sanitary facilities, build ramps, design furniture for the community, paint fences, and repair roofs.

The program supports existing material and social (infra)structures counteracting the negative effects of Venice's commercialization and actively promoting the social inclusion of underprivileged groups.

The meeting space is instead an area conceived as an exchange opportunity and includes a section that may be of interest to accessory designers: here people can create bags from material leftovers from the 2022 Art Biennale using patterns created by transdisciplinary association Haus der Materialisierung.

The bag making section is a reaction to the waste caused by the tens of thousands of bags that individual pavilions hand out each year.

Those visitors who want to have a rest can instead play with the educational board game Trivial Circuit developed by LXSY Architekten in cooperation with Impact Hub Berlin and Concular, which helps to understand the complex reorganization of the planning processes involved in circular construction.

The bag manufacturing area was the most crowded section of the pavilion during the opening days, proving that pavilions or installations that offer hands-on activities to visitors are always amongst the most popular ones.

The bag making area also made you ponder about future developments and projects about leftover materials from the Biennale. It would indeed be interesting if the Biennale had a shop where people could buy (also in small quantities) leftover materials from previous biennale events (a bit like Spazio Meta in Milan) or objects or accessories made with such materials. 

While this pavilion looked at a series of social issues intrinsic to architecture, from recycling and reusing, to repairing, fostering inclusivity and diversity, not everybody liked the idea of the materials on display.

Patrik Schumacher from Zaha Hadid Architects (maybe upset at not having been invited?), stated in a post on Facebook that the Venice Architecture Biennale is "mislabeled" and "should stop laying claim to the title of architecture" as it "does not show any architecture".

Lamenting the fact that most pavilions do not show the work of architects, Schumacher also stated that the German Pavilion is "filled with piles of construction material". Who knows, maybe he didn't have the time to read all the information accompanying the exhibition and the impact that the workshop programme may have on the city.

Maybe he should remember that the so-called "Architecture Biennale" is not an exclusive club for architects and designers, but it is open to a wide audience (interestingly enough, he didn't complain during previous biennale events that did feature Zaha Hadid Architects and that included a variety of installations and not just architectural projects).

After all, while not all of us may be able to look at a urban plan or at a model of a building with excitement, we all know that architecture has a profound impact on our lives as it shapes the way we live, work, and interact with our surroundings, affecting our physical well-being but also influencings our social dynamics, equity, and inclusivity.

With its focus on recycling and reusing materials, "Open for Maintenance" serves therefore as a reminder of architecture's social responsibility: the project highlights the importance of creating spaces that foster community engagement, promote sustainable practices and cater to diverse needs.

Image credits for this post

All images by Anna Battista except:

1. The new inclusive access ramp to the German Pavilion, Open for Maintenance © Nils Koenning

14 and 15. Performance by Forward Dance Company by Lofft - Das Theater, © Nils Koenning

29. Open for Maintenance © Arch+ / Summacumfemmer / Büro Julian Grebe

Everlasting Plastics: The U.S. Pavilion @ The 18th International Architecture Exhibition - La Biennale di Venezia

A study, published in the Journal of Hazardous Materials Advances in May, examines the pollution potential of plastic recycling facilities and investigates microplastic pollution in wastewater and in the air from a mixed plastics recycling facility in the UK.

According to the scientists who produced the research, even with a filter installed ,the facility could be releasing up to 75bn plastic particles in each cubic metre of wastewater (the plant was tested before and after the installation of the filtration system that allowed to record a reduction in the concentration of microplastics from 13% to 6%).

Microplastics have by now contaminated the entire planet, and can be found in the most unlikely places, from marine and freshwater bodies to soil; from food to drinking water, from the deepest oceans to the top of Mount Everest. Last year, microplastics were also found in the placentas of pregnant women and in human blood and lungs.

According to this study, the concept of recycling, initially introduced as a potential solution to address the escalating issue of plastic waste, is therefore revealing its limitations rather than providing a definitive resolution. In fact, recycling practices are inadvertently worsening the problem at hand. This point is also highlighted by Greenpeace in the recently released paper "Forever Toxic".

In this report, the organization states that plastics are inherently incompatible with a circular economy and that recycled plastics can be very dangerous for different reasons. When plastics are made with toxic chemicals and then recycled, the toxic chemicals can indeed transfer into the recycled plastics.

Besides, plastics can absorb contaminants via direct contact and through the absorption of volatile compounds, this means that plastic containers for pesticides, cleaning solvents, and other toxic chemicals can contaminate recycled plastic. Last but not least, when plastics are heated in the recycling process, this can generate new toxic chemicals that make their way into the recycled plastics.

Greenpeace's report coincides with the ongoing debates and efforts of 175 nations aiming to establish a potential international global plastics treaty by 2024.

But the lifecycle of plastic, its role in design, architecture and in our lives, is also explored at the US Pavilion at the 18th International Architecture Exhibition in Venice (until 26th November 2023).

The pavilion - embracing Lesley Lokko's theme for this year's biennale, "The Laboratory of the Future" - is turned into a workshop to explore our complex relationship with plastic.

Curated by Tizziana Baldenebro, Executive Director of Cleveland-based nonprofit alternative art organization SPACES, and Lauren Leving, Curator at the Museum of Contemporary Art Cleveland (moCa), the "Everlasting Plastics" exhibition at the pavilion presents the work of five artists and designers.

The pavilion is conceived as a sort of platform for the artists and designers involved to engage audiences in considering the role of plastic in our lives and the overabundance of plastic detritus in our waterways, landfills, and streets as a rich resource.

The exhibition opens in the courtyard of the pavilion, with Lauren Yeager's artworks. The Cleveland-based sculptor re-imagined commonplace objects and, using salvaged consumer materials, created a series of assemblages.

Referencing classical art and modernist architectural forms, Yeager's sculptures incorporate once-loved reclaimed items such as unaltered Coleman coolers and children's toys from the Ohio-based company Little Tikes.

The formal sculptures resulting from these domestic pieces end up incorporating relics of personal histories; they point at the ordinary routines of everyday life, but at the same time they are also elevated to art, fluctuating between different contexts.

Upon stepping into the pavilion, the first pieces visitors will see are the ones by Norman Teague. The designer and Assistant Professor of Industrial Design at the University of Illinois Chicago, works with common, locally sourced building materials and collaborates with local fabricators to create objects and spaces that explore simplicity and honesty.

Teague's past projects have included consumer products, public sculpture, performances, and specially designed retail spaces. His pieces for the pavilion are made with recycled plastics sourced from households and businesses in Chicago.

In these pieces the plastic is melted, extruded and used to create objects based on Bolga and Agaseke basket-weaving techniques. The resulting designs wouldn't look out of place at major design events such as Milan Design Week or in the window shop of a luxury boutique.

Traditional vessels are reinterpreted through recycled materials to hint at the importance of preserving the cultural memory. These designs also allow Teague to bridge the Global South and the Global North through a diasporic lens. Besides, the bright colors of these objects hint at commercial waste, while their earthy tones reference nature.

Two different rooms are dedicated to the work of Xavi L. Aguirre. The architectural designer, founder, and director of the architectural design practice stock-a-studio and Assistant Professor of Architecture at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, explores the relationship we have with plastic proofing materials employed to hermetically seal us from moisture, heat and other threatening elements.

Moving from theatrical sets and club cultures, Aguirre incorporated these materials in new environments and structures suspended between protection and endangerment.

Architect and Assistant Professor at Northeastern University, Ang Li explored instead the relationship between mass and volume, juxtaposing the properties of a seemingly weightless material with the densities of monumental form.

Hidden layers of expanded polystyrene (EPS) foam form a universal membrane within our homes, landscapes and supply chains. Here EPS waste, diverted from landfills is compressed into dense, discrete building blocks that can be read as both commodity and material catalogue.

Borrowing building techniques from the unit systems of waste processing industries, Li established an architecture of accumulation that prompts us to reflect on our systems of valuation, resource and refuse.

Visually speaking, the pieces by Detroit-based multi-disciplinary artist, designer, and educator Simon Anton, are the most intriguing.

Anton collaborates across the fields of architecture, interior design, furniture, art, and jewelry. He is the co-founder of Thing Thing, a design collective that experiments in the transformation of post-consumer, hand-recycled polyethylene plastic sourced from surrounding communities and from industrial manufacturing. He also runs "Transforming Trash," where he works with youth in Detroit to transform community plastic waste into art.

From a distance Anton's works look like giant pretzels covered in multi-coloured topping sprinkles or decorated with millions of Murano glass splinters. Yet, when you get nearer to the pieces, you realise they are not made with any kind of edible or precious material.

Anton devised indeed a process to graft plastic waste onto armatures, and this system allowed the designer to cover urban structures like metal barriers with chips of coloured plastic waste and rethink in this way modern functional and political objects, turning them into ornamental critiques that also offer visitors a heightened tactile experience.

The technique represents a new possibility in a world in which waste plastics are inseparable from the built environment. While being visually striking, these pieces prompt us to consider a future in which architectural environments may end up being covered in plastic, but also at more dreadful possibilities, like our own bodies and in particular our internal organs being colonized by microplastics.

By exploring the cultural ubiquity of plastics and acknowledging that our toxic interdependency is now a global dependency, visitors at the US Pavilion will realise that Du Pont's late '40s slogan "Better Living…through chemistry" is not credible anymore and above all it is definitely not reassuring.

A publication produced in partnership with Columbia Books on Architecture and the City (CBAC) accompanies the exhibition. 

The collection of essays, entitled "Sketches On Everlasting Plastics" (you can read them here), features articles with insights about the history of petrochemical polymers in the US, pieces about the disposability and single-usage of plastic and considerations about the toxicity levels of plastic in our everyday lives (think about how plastic is employed in the healthcare sector as well, so even the most virtuous amongst us end up producing waste materials…).

The essays also look at the Great Pacific Garbage Patch and microplastics, reflect on the connections between fossil fuels with racist, classist and colonial practices and explore the denial of the capacity of plasticity (the capacity to change, to be molded, to transform while retaining self-sameness) to colonial subjects and non-white people.

There's also some food for thought for fashion designers in this anthology: one essay by Sky Cubacub, founder of Rebirth Garments, an activewear line for queer and trans disabled people of all sizes and ages, raises awareness about the challenges of seeking eco-friendly alternatives to petroleum-based fabrics.

In their feature, Sky Cubacub emphasizes the need to address the issue of plastic elimination in various industries, but highlights the scarcity of viable alternatives in the context of disabled accessibility, where viable solutions remain scarce, suggesting that, despite the necessity for change, for the time being such materials may still be necessary in this sector.

The essays serve as a means to enlighten ourselves regarding the toxic chemical association we have with plastic. It is indeed only by facing the paradoxes of plastic head-on that we can understand how to reduce its usage and envision a transformative future where plastics are utilized sparingly, responsibly, and with careful consideration of their associated impacts and advantages.

The Architectural Narratives of Afrogallonism: Serge Attukwei Clottey's "Time and Chance" @ The 18th International Architecture Exhibition - La Biennale di Venezia

The artistry of tapestry creation extends beyond conventional threads and yarns. There are indeed artists who explore the possibilities of skillfully weaving disparate materials with remarkable results.

Using a technique similar to that developed by Paco Rabanne in his pioneering chain mail dresses, El Anatsui incorporates in his works found materials such as discarded aluminum caps and plastic seals from liquor bottles. The outcome is nothing short of mesmerizing, particularly when these monumental works create intricate formations and graceful folds, captivating the beholder with their sheer magnificence.

Based in Accra, Ghana, Serge Attukwei Clottey creates instead monumental pieces with yellow "Kufuor" containers. Their name derives from John Kofi Agyekum Kufuor, a Ghanaian politician who served as the President of Ghana from 2001 to 2009, and was also chairperson of the African Union from 2007 to 2008.

Clottey works across installation, performance, photography, painting and sculpture, exploring personal and political narratives rooted in histories of trade and migration.

The artist is the founder of the GoLokal collective and the creator of "Afrogallonism", an artistic concept commenting on consumption within modern Africa through the utilisation of the ubiquitous yellow gallon containers found throughout Ghana, but arriving from Europe as cooking oil canisters and reused to store or carry water and petrol.

By cutting them into irregular squares and linking the squares one to the other with metal rings, Clottey builds striking tapestries. His latest installation - entitled "Time and Chance" and developed for the 18th International Architecture Exhibition in Venice (until 26th November 2023) - is currently on display outside the Arsenale, under one of the Gaggiandre.

The work hangs organically, its shape defined by its own weight, suspended gracefully above the water, casting shimmering reflections along the surface below. Inside the Corderie there is instead a large fragment of the same work found at the Gaggiandre.

Clottey skillfully engages with global material culture by employing the yellow containers, transforming them through cutting, drilling, stitching, and melting. The gallons utilized in Clottey's artworks are not inherently African, as they are products of plastic construction, they are imported and subsequently discarded. But, by using them for his pieces, Clottey seamlessly reintegrates these materials in the African culture, imbuing them with renewed value and significance through his artistic process.

In his installations at the Venice Biennale, his plastic tapestries embrace the inherent character of Venetian architecture: the large site-specific installation at the Gaggiandre delves into the interplay between "Afrogallonism" and this culturally significant location. Architecture becomes indeed more than a backdrop, it turns into an integral part of the narrative.

In Venice Clottey's works find unlikely correspondences in locally made textiles and fabrics, from precious velvets to the thinnest finely pleated Fortuny gowns, but also in the Byzantine style mosaics that can be admired at Saint Mark's Basilica, with their bright golden background.

These juxtapositions engender a fascinating interplay of contrasts between luxurious, thin and ethereal textiles and textures, precious mosaics and modern materials (it is also interesting to note how some of Clottey's tapestries seen from a distance call to mind Gustav Klimt's Golden Phase artworks, that were in turn inspired by the Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna and Venice...).

Last but not least, these contrasts do not only generate a visually compelling architectural narrative, but they also urge us to confront the profound impact of waste and the extensive reach of global consumption.

Imagination as Catalyst for a Carbon-Free Tomorrow: The Role of Ane Crabtree's Costumes in Liam Young's "The Great Endeavor" @ The 18th International Architecture Exhibition - La Biennale di Venezia

A while back, Australian film director and speculative architect Liam Young presented a vision of the future in a 15-minute animated short film. Entitled "Planet City", the film introduced a hyper-dense sustainable vertical mega-metropolis where 10 billion humans - the projected population of the earth in 2050 - lived. 

In Young's film, "Planet City" was conceived as the place where humanity retreats while nature takes back its spaces and returns to thrive, reversing in this way the apocalyptic climate change.

Through his work, Young seamlessly blends elements of design, fiction, and future possibilities, crafting speculative films that are firmly rooted in real scientific and technological advancements. These films serve as urgent examinations of the pressing environmental challenges that confront us today.

Young has recently worked on a new project, entitled "The Great Endeavor", currently on display in the Arsenale section at the 18th International Architecture Exhibition in Venice (until 26th November 2023).

The project revolves around a new film inspired by the words of geographer and environmental social scientist Holly Jean Buck, "First World nations have colonized the atmosphere with their greenhouse gas emissions."

In the film Young presents a plan to achieve our current climate targets, inviting people to consider the possibility of going beyond simply reducing future emissions by developing the capability to extract existing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and securely store it underground on a massive scale.

"We have always built the impossible," Young states in the informative panels accompanying the film. "We dug canals between continents, joined coasts with rail lines, landed on distant planets and built cities that reach into the clouds. Now, on the precipice of climate collapse, we need to build the impossible again, a planetary machine for carbon removals."

This ambitious undertaking, known as the "great endeavor", requires the construction of the most monumental engineering project in human history and the establishment of a new infrastructure that rivals the entire global fossil fuel industry in size.

It represents a new milestone and necessitates a global mobilization of workers and resources that demands an unprecedented level of international cooperation.

The film portrays the intricate design, construction, visualization, and drama involved in bringing this imaginative infrastructure to life. This transformative endeavor involves converting airborne carbon into a liquefied gas, which can then be injected deep beneath the ocean floor or mineralized within the arid expanse of desert rock.

The film is accompanied by a new composition by vocalist Lyra Pramuk, who provides a planetary workers' song celebrating the spirit of unity and collective action on a global scale, and by workwear by The Handmaid's Tale costume designer, Ane Crabtree (tailor for the project: Hae Min Yun).

The renowned Hollywood costume designer acted as film producer and costume director in "Planet City"; for this new film, she developed instead four typologies of workwear for the people involved in this historic undertaking.

"These are the coveralls worn by the global work force of The Great Endeavor, a chorus of millions, coming together under 300 years of billowing black smoke, to draw down the sky, bury it in the mountains and trap it deep beneath the waves," Young states about the costumes in a panel accompanying the installation.

The designs revolve around a palette of high-vis orange, vivid reds and reassuring earthy tones. Crabtree moved from repurposed oil rig coveralls and shirts (names and logos of the companies, from ExxonMobil and Shell to Halliburton are still visible on the garments), and added digital embroidered motifs representing geospatial information and landscape charts or recycled nylon elements and panels integrating fabrics with a three-dimensional quality about them hinting at geological data and maps on the surface of the textiles (geographical maps made with tapestries, textiles and embroideries are almost a trend at this year's biennale).

One jacket reminds of a Medieval garment, reinvented to incorporate high-tech textiles and offering in this way a fusion of tradition and innovation. A shirt finds its perfect complement in an apron skirt, creating an ensemble that harmonizes both style and functionality. Furthermore, a coverall reimagines the conventional sleeve by incorporating a long glove, emphasizing the evolving nature of these uniforms.

With these uniforms Crabtree walks the fine line between utopia and dystopia: the garments present us a future in which the logos of fossil-fuel companies have lost their meaning, and people are reinterpreting uniforms in very personal ways.

At the same time, while infusing the costumes with a touch of visionary aesthetics, the costume designer thoughtfully incorporated protective elements such as long padded gloves, aprons and hoods, subtly alluding to the possibility that wearers might encounter demanding circumstances along their journey.

These creations transcend mere workwear as they signify the emergence of new wardrobes that symbolize the transformative aspirations of the wearers. Young aptly highlights that these garments are no longer confined to utilitarian purposes alone, but, in his project, they are proudly donned by the collective assembly entrusted with the profound task of reshaping our world.

"As we begin to move away from fossil fuels the engineers of oil and gas are reassigned to the emerging carbon industry, their repurposed coveralls now richly embroidered with fine threads and intricate details," Young explains about the designs.

Imaginary worlds may appear disconnected from finding practical solutions to real challenges, after all a speculative project can't really be considered as problem-solving.

However, visionary projects like Young's hold a profound power to emotionally engage us through the art of storytelling. They enable us to visualize complex issues and transform data and statistics into compelling narratives that pave the way towards an aspirational future, bridge the gap between imagination and action, and empower us to envision the limitless horizons that lie ahead, unfolding the infinite potential for our future.

Interweaving a Cartography of Gold: "Threads" by Kate Otten Architects @ The 18th International Architecture Exhibition - La Biennale di Venezia"

Two billion years ago, a massive meteorite, measuring 5 to 10 kilometers in diameter, collided with the Earth's surface in southern Africa, leaving a lasting impact on the planet.

This impact site, known as the Vredefort Dome, is located in the north-central part of South Africa.

The tremendous kinetic energy of the meteorite caused significant disturbances, resulting in extensive geological transformations within a 300-kilometer diameter. The collision created a half crater approximately 25 kilometers away from the point of impact, along with several fragmented mountain ranges and a central volcanic formation. As magma brought gold elements to the surface, the surrounding ring-shaped mountains protected these precious minerals from weathering and erosion.

Present-day Johannesburg, situated at the base of the meteorite-formed crater, is closely tied to this geological history as the discovery of gold in the late 1880s and the ensuing gold rush, led to the establishment of the city.

One of the most significant gold mines near Johannesburg is renowned as the deepest mine in the world. Over a century of mining activities allowed South Africa to reap substantial benefits from its gold reserves. However, like any finite mineral resource, the South African gold mining industry is currently experiencing a decline in production as the reserves dwindle over time.

At the 18th International Architecture Exhibition in Venice (until 26th November 2023), Kate Otten Architects took a distinctive approach to storytelling, deviating from the linear patriarchal narrative. Their installation, situated in the Arsenale, unfolds as a harmonious blend of simultaneous and intuitive readings of the landscape, skillfully conveyed through the hands of women artisans.

Central to the installation is a suspended loom, delicately woven with mohair to create a cloak that embraces the body, offering warmth and comfort. The installation goes beyond mere aesthetics, incorporating a sociological mapping of the surface landscape and topography. Here, the presence of green spaces corresponds to privileged and affluent areas, while treeless regions represent impoverished neighborhoods. Dividing these contrasting landscapes, the remnants of mining waste act as a symbolic boundary.

The narrative further unfolds with the inclusion of gold mines and water courses, intricately intertwined to deepen the reading of the space. To adorn the body, a beaded necklace serves as a poignant symbol, representing the extraction of gold from the Earth and its significance within the context.

In line with their intention to embrace the essence of South Africa, the materials used in the installation are carefully selected to be natural, decomposable, and specific to the region. From the dyes to the mohair wool, sourced from the thriving industry in the rural Karoo region, every element is a testament to the deep-rooted connection to the land.

The piece was developed by women's collectives, drawing upon age-old traditions and fostering a sense of community and collaboration.

Through the interplay of light and shadow, the vibrant colors and intricate patterns, and the meticulous craftsmanship and collaborative process, this installation embodies an architectural approach that is deeply rooted in the essence of its place.

It not only reflects the unique spirit of South Africa but also nurtures the human spirit, inviting visitors to engage with the landscape and its narratives in a profound and meaningful way.

Cross-Continental Clothesscapes: Lauren Loïs Duah's "Obroni Wa'awu" @ The 18th International Architecture Exhibition - La Biennale di Venezia

As seen in the previous post, tapestries can be used to tell architectural stories. Yet they can also be employed to create an educational narrative about our collective consumeristic attitudes and the impact they have on other people, as proved by Lauren Loïs Duah's "Obroni Wa'awu': Cross-Continental Clothesscapes" project at the 18th International Architecture Exhibition in Venice (until 26th November 2023).

In the Ghanaian Twi (or Akan) language, "Obroni Wa'awu'" indicates second-hand clothing, but its literal translation is far more remarkable as it means "someone must have died to let go of all these items".

This definition strikes at the core of our consciousness, making us realise that we often discard garments not in the face of our mortality, but in the throes of our existence.

Indeed, we cast them not when we die, but when we are alive, driven by boredom or swayed by the capricious currents of fashion, convincing ourselves that those colors, forms, and silhouettes are no longer en vogue. Yet, maybe, we are not truly alive in the present moment, but rather exist in a state of alienation and desire, as we crave for more clothes, heedless of the impact of our bad habits.

In recent years, however, the exploration of the clothing industry has transformed into a portal, granting us glimpses into the realms of labor, migration, and the intricate tapestry of supply chain economies.

These revelations have shown us that our habits have "cross-continental" consequences that prod us to embark on a transformative journey of mindful consumption.

Lauren Loïs Duah has carried out an extensive research on the spatial implications of capitalist overproduction.

For years she has focused on how architecture can respond to the issue of overconsumption, while researching textile making in Ghana (her background is in Textiles & Design, Fine Art and Literature), the weaving of Kente cloth, the use of Adinkra symbols and of wax-print cloth.

The tapestry on display at the Arsenale tries to unravel the seams of the clothing supply chain industry, showing how we as Western consumers have become alienated from the sites of production.

The piece explores the way fast fashion is underpinned by racial capitalism and the effect of the Global North's dirty laundry in creating these vast cross-continental clothesscapes in cities such as Accra, Ghana.

The tapestry was made using the processes of mapping the supply chain using architectural drawing techniques, traditional forms of oral storytelling and record-keeping through sound maps of conversations in the sites explored. In this way Lauren Loïs Duah created an alternative visual masterplan.

The story is told in vertical stripes, from the left to the right, starting with cotton harvesting, passing through clothes production and selling. Then it follows the second-hand clothes arriving in Ghana, being sold at Accra's Kantamanto Market, and eventually ending up in rivers and oceans.

Indeed, when the clothes can't be sold, they are discarded in Accra's landfill sites, that are currently overfilled. The upper layer of the landfills is often burnt, a practice that releases harmful gasses; in other cases, overflow spills in nearby waterways, polluting rivers, ending up in the ocean and washing up on the shores.

QR codes integrated in the tapestry allow to discover further stories, while dialogues present us with the point of view of the locals, stating "…when people look at Ghana they think Ghana is a refuse dump…"

Duah developed a visual language of colours, symbols and drawings to tell this story, creating her own Adinkra symbols for this project and including in the tapestry Kayayei (female porters) who are often referred to as the backbone of Kantamanto Market.

The Kayayei women, often migrating from the North in search of jobs in Accra, carry loads of up to 50kg including bales of clothing or second-hand goods on their heads while navigating Accra's streets, roadsides and market paths in the sub-Saharan heat daily, often without breaks or points for respite.

They are unprotected by any worker's rights, susceptible to being exploited and overworking to make a living. The luckiest ones can buy their own bales and open their stalls in and around the market. While they earn little money, in this way these young women can escape the dire conditions of their hometowns, avoid forced marriage and support their families.

In the tapestry, the motifs intricately woven into the fabric serve as a heartfelt tribute to the laborious journeys and hardships endured by these resilient Kayayei women; they prompt a reevaluation of the choices we make and invite us to reflect upon the profound question of whether the notion of ethical consumption can ever truly be realized.