It is always a joy to spot unique ballet, opera and theatre costumes at auctions and collectors will soon have the chance to get some real gems in an auction launched by the Paris Opera and the AROP (Friends of the Paris National Opera) in collaboration with Sotheby's auction house.
The event, entitled "Auction for Action, Bid for Creation" (23 - 31 January), is the first launched by the Paris Opera and features works and collectibles from all eras and styles, donated by artists, collectors and gallery owners.
Proceeds will support the Opera and the production of innovative shows that will be developed keeping in mind new generations of ballet and opera fans and hoping to attract those who are unfamiliar to these worlds.
The auction includes accessories such as a unique bracelet by Claude Lalanne and a silver and strass tiara from 1890 circa, with an interesting story behind it (it was a gift from Queen Victoria to one of her ladies in waiting who bequeathed it to her son; a balletomane, he gifted it to international ballet star Irina Baranova in the late '30s), and a few costumes as well, including opera creations by Romanian costume designers Florica Malureanu and Marina Draghici.
Ballet fans on the lookout for some fashion connections will be happy to know that the auction includes a white tulle tutu decorated with gold and silver embroideries, sequins with rhinestones, designed by Christian Lacroix.
The tutu, worn by Mlle Letestu was designed for a performance at the Opéra national de Paris of George Balanchine’s "Jewels" in 2000 (obviously for the movement dedicated to diamonds).
There are other rarities for those who love a fashion connection, including two costumes by Tomio Mohri. The costume designer, stage designer, director and author is also known for his installations. For decades he has also worked as the artistic director of Issey Miyake's exhibitions.
The first Tomio Mohri's design is a classic Black Swan tutu with decorative motifs made with rhinestones, feathers, sequins and faux citrine stones (the skirt is also decorated with smudges of gold paint).
The tutu was donned by Elisabeth Maurin for the performance of "Swan Lake" directed by choreographer Patrice Bart after Vladimir Bourmeister in 1992 at the Opéra national de Paris. From the same ballet there is also a men's costume, a long-sleeved doublet originally worn by Charles Judes.
The doublet features embroidered decorations, but the most interesting part is the waist with a sash that features around the back a series of motifs created by knotted silver and gold ropes, maybe a reference to Japanese decorative knots.
The most elaborate piece on offer remains Jean-Daniel Vuillermoz' toreador costume from "Carmen", entirely covered in gold floral embroideries, rhinestones and sequins, and including a sleeveless vest, a jacket, black trousers, a satin stole, a cape and the traditional montera hat. This costume was worn by Ludovic Tézier playing Escamillo during Act IV of "Carmen" directed by Yves Beaunesne in the 2011-2012 season at the Opéra national de Paris.
The most arty costume remains a simple yet striking tutu by surrealist artist Leonor Fini. The tutu, in black tulle and satin sprinkled with black and fuchsia sequins on the bodice, comes with a matching headdress, and was designed for the ballet "The Crystal Palace".
The most interesting details are featured on the tutu skirt with black and white/black and fuchsia lines of sequins forming three-dimensional stripes and a black and white chevron sequined pattern around the edge of the tutu.
This costume was worn by Monique Loudières for the ballet "Le Palais de Cristal" directed by the choreographer George Balanchine in 1994 at the Opéra National de Paris.
All the costumes in this auction are estimated between 1,500 and 2,000 EUR, yet some of them like Leonor Fini's will probably go well beyond the estimated value. And if we can't afford them, well, we can still get inspired by some of their details like the dynamic lines of sequins on Fini's tutu.
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