Leaders of the world's wealthiest nations are currently converging in Rome for the G20 summit that will kick off in the Italian capital at the weekend. At the summit they will discuss climate change, Covid-19 and the post-pandemic global recovery. The meeting anticipates the United Nations COP26 climate change conference, starting in Glasgow on 31st October.
Climate change is already one of the main topics of interest at the moment, but expect it to be the focus of the news in the next few days. So, let's start analyzing this theme by looking at a designer, Rolf Ekroth, who has been employing in his collections (currently on display at Helsinki's Designmuseo as part of the exhibition "Intimacy"), a sustainable straw-based fiber, Bio2™Textile. The material was developed by Finnish state-owned company Fortum, based in Espoo.
Knowing that using polyester and cotton is unsustainable in terms of water and chemical use as well as emissions and considering how we waste millions of tons of straw, Ekroth opted to experiment in his collection with this innovative textile that is based on what's essentially considered an agro-residue.
While some straw is left in the fields as fertilizer, the rest is indeed usually burned, a process that causes severe pollution problems as it releases carbon dioxide. But this waste can be turned into valuable products.
Bio2™Textile fiber was developed in the Fortum's Bio2X product development programme: the material is made using the "fractionation" process developed by Oulu-based biorefining technology company Chempolis, using its own formicofib™ solution (that uses straw to produce the cellulose needed for the manufacture of the fiber).
This process separates the biomass into lignin, cellulose and hemicellulose with high yields and purities, fractions that can then be used to replace fossil-derived raw materials in many industrial and consumer sectors.
Straw is turned into a textile through a carbamate process which involves animal feed grade urea instead of carbon disulfide, a toxin involved in other textile processes.
According to Fortum, Bio2™Textile fibers have extremely low environmental impact and can replace unsustainable materials in a variety of applications, so they may open up huge possibilities globally.
Fortum and sustainable fiber technology company Spinnova had unveiled wheat straw-based clothing in 2019 and showcased them at the Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference in Vancouver, but, rather than experimenting with them with one or two garments, Ekroth developed entire collections based around this innovative textile.
For his S/S 22 collection, Ekroth was inspired by Juhannus, the Finnish Midsummer and the traditions and magic surrounding it. The theme of Finnish pagan beliefs strongly related to nature and farming were also present in Ekroth's new Autumn/Winter 21 collection, "Reset".
The latter is indeed inspired by '80s horror films, Finnish agricultural, farming traditions, ancient customs and beliefs. While Ekroth employed the textile for his T-shirts, hoodies, skirts and capes, a straw theme appeared in the prints inspired by Finnish field landscapes as well. The designer also appliqued straw elements and "himmeli" (Finnish Christmas decorations) dolls hinting at pagan traditions, to some of his designs.
There are obviously many pros in opting for this textile: it has indeed a cotton-like consistency, it is very easy to dye and it needs less chemicals and water in the dyeing process than normal viscose and cotton fabrics. One experimental textile may not bring some real changes, though, so new researches in alternative textile fibers will have to be on the top priority list of actions for global textile industry operators and consumers in the next few years. New environmentally friendly solutions and textiles manufactured through ethically-sourced and sustainable resources, will have to be developed in the years to come.
These new textiles may not just be good for fashion in general, but they may open up new opportunities in other countries as well: in 2018, Fortum established indeed a joint venture biorefinery in Assam, India (with Chempolis and Numaligarh Refinery Limited, NRL) that uses as key raw material bamboo and that produces biochemical and biocoal (employed to produce heat and power to the biorefinery).
As more than 60 percent of the world's textiles are still made from oil-based raw materials and cotton is still widely used in fashion despite its unsustainable production practices (consider the fertilizers and pesticides used to grow cotton which threaten the quality of soil and water), research is the key.
At the moment, there aren't too many alternative solutions on the market and many textiles are still in their developmental phase, but Finland is conducting extensive, multidisciplinary research on fabrics and Aalto University is involved in development work. Designers and educational institutions as well should therefore focus on textile research as this is definitely a sector of interest that may lead to innovative and intriguing discoveries and to exciting jobs as well.
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