In a previous post we looked at applying a traditional embroidery technique to modern fashion designs. Yet there are other techniques we may borrow from other fields and reinvent in fashion. Sotheby's has got for example an intriguing online event of rare books and manuscripts, some of them with exquisite covers and bindings.
Embroidered bindings were frequent in the 16th century, but from 1532 there was a decline in favour of leather bindings. Fabric and embroidered bindings continued to be produced, but in limited numbers. So let's look at two of these volumes and see how they may inspire is.
The first book is Horae beatissimae virginis Maria, ad usum romanum repurgatissimae published in Antwerp by Christophe Plantin in 1570. This precious cloth binding, made in Paris or Antwerp, bears witness to the luxury and refinement of this type of Renaissance coverings, very popular among the Valois since the mid-14th century.
The cover of the book, in black velvet embroidered with gold threads features the coat of arms of François de France (1555-1584; this allows us to date the book after 1576), Duke of Alençon then Duke of Anjou, last son of Henry II and Catherine de Medici. The coat of arms is surrounded by the collar of the Order of Saint-Michael in the center of the plate on a background with a diamond-shaped pattern with fleur-de-lys and a double 𝛟 (for François) at the corners, plus a border composed of foliage and long spine decorated with fleur-de-lys, clovers and quatrefoils. The book features 17 full-page copper engravings by Jean and Jérôme Wierix and Peter Huys after Pierre van Der Borsch.
The embroidery on this book cover is exquisitely rich, but if you prefer a slightly more modern style, check out this edition of "The Song of Songs", published in 1925 by Francois-Louis Schmied.
The garnet lacquer cover is decorated with a large composition in gold and eggshell representing two birds with outstretched wings pecking each other. The exceptional "eggshell" lacquer was made by Swiss lacquer artist Jean Dunand and it is truly unique: at first glance, only a glitter of gold and eggshell shards radiating towards the corners is visible, but, when you look at it better, you realise the radiating motifs form two doves pecking in flight.
After having created small objects of art in lacquered metal such as jewels, Dunand adapted his technique to bindings for his friend Schmied. He was the first to introduce the eggshell in his lacquers, in order to introduce white in the composition, as this color cannot be obtained by vegetable pigments.
Bidding for each of these books start at €45,000 Euros, and they are estimated to fetch between €50,000 and €80,000. But in a way this is not important for us mere mortals who won't be able to afford them. What is important here is the fact that we can still learn more about techniques, materials and a passion for details from different - and often unlikely - sources.
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