In the last two posts we examined the work of the late Japanese designer Kansai Yamamoto and looked at the way he often employed traditions as starting points for his designs. Yamamoto moved for example from the Kabuki theatre or from figures such as samurai warriors and incorporated certain inspirations into his designs as prints or as knitted elements. At times, the designer also attempted to create modern motifs using traditional techniques. In 1973 he produced indeed a series of designs - among them cotton or wool plain weave dresses and jackets - and decorated them with Bunka shishu.
The history of punch needle embroidery is long and for some researchers it goes back to ancient Egypt, for others to Medieval Europe. It consists in punching and looping a thread with a special needle through a cloth usually tacked onto a wooden frame like an embroidery hoop.
Bunka punch embroidery originated in Japan when rayon thread was invented. Rayon thread can be manipulated to create different textures and effects reminiscent of paintings that provide great visual effects and depth as well.
Kansai's dresses were inspired by the 1970s Japanese trend for mid-calf to ankle-length peasant-style dresses. In his case he turned the idea into a sort of fun halter neck piece in which the embroidered flower had a decorative and functional purpose as it covered the breasts, creating a sensual and innovative shape and motif.
The dress could be matched with a short, full-sleeved jacket with buttons along the left shoulder, The designs were decorated with his name and with large red lotus flowers in punch needle embroidery.
These designs also referenced in a clever way Kansai Yamamoto's life: the name of punch needle embroidery - bunka - was indeed a play on the name of the Bunka Fashion College where the designer studied, graduating in 1967.
Want to try your hand at this technique that is actually not too difficult and can be also a relaxing way to fight against modern anxieties and worries? Check out on the Internet and you will easily find not just information and books about punch needle embroidery, but also learning videos illustrating the technique at different levels, from amateur to professional.
Comments