We do live in complex historical times and in a perennially broken society that struggles to build a more peaceful and human world: U.S. President Donald Trump's order to kill Iranian general Qasem Soleimani sparked an international crisis; a child stowaway was found frozen to death dead yesterday in the undercarriage of a plane from Cote d'Ivoire to Paris, marking another human tragedy linked with migration policies, and Brexit will fragment the European Union on 31st January 2020.
They say fashion mirrors the society we live in, but it looks like some of the A/W 2020 collections presented last week during London Fashion Week Men's, hinted instead at what society could and should be about. There have indeed been designers in London who tried to tackle issues such as migration, unity and international collaboration.
Grace Wales Bonner recreated for her runway show a sort of informal community centre, hall and gym space. The mood was London in the '70s seen from the point of view of young British Afro-Caribbeans. This inspiration was a direct reference to Bonner's personal story as her grandfather migrated from Jamaica to the UK in the 1950s.
The designer paid homage to the Lovers Rock scene, a mix of reggae and soul, that, launched by second generation Jamaicans in the UK, became popular in the '70s in London.
One of the main starting points for the collection was a selection of documentary photographs by John Goto of teenagers at Lewisham Youth Club in the '70s. The identity of these kids was rediscovered via a mix of British tailoring and fabrics in a palette that juxtaposed English muted nuances to the vibrant colours of Jamaica and the Grenadines.
The result was eclectic, revolving around the concept of mix'n'match, with some elegant looks, but also some styles borrowed from workwear. The collection included checked tailored suits and fully pleated skirts matched with blazers (yes, there were also a few women's looks in the collection); two-tone trousers, boxy jackets and '70s track suit jackets in satin with knitted collar and cuffs; high-waisted tailored denim trousers, corduroy patchwork skirts and tweed suits, all accessorised with Stephen Jones' hats and Adidas sneakers (a collaboration with the sportswear company).
Elsewhere Paria Farzaneh (a finalist at last year's LVMH Prize), staged a traditional Iranian wedding for her show: male and female guests sat on separate sides of the venue (a school hall in East London).
On a stage in the background a bride sat in classic white lace, next to her the groom was dressed instead in a modern and practical attire - a padded jacket with a balaclava hood with a decorative motif hand-made by an artisan in Isfahan, Iran, using the traditional woodblock techniques and natural dyes such as turmeric and saffron.
The marriage ceremony was conducted in Farsi and, at the end, the bride remained seated on the stage watching, while the groom put on his hood and joined the other models in the show wearing functional streetwear, tracksuits, hoodies and a few garments inspired by military uniforms (a reference to the fact that military service is mandatory in Iran?).
Panels with Farzaneh's trademark paisley prints (Farzaneh is among the designers who have relaunched paisely prints in the last few years in convincing ways) were incorporated in all the designs giving them a romantic edge while paying homage to the designer's own Persian heritage.
And while the collection may have been edited to avoid some repetitions, the show was symbolical as it took place the day after the US military operation in Iran. Farzaneh's runway was not meant to be political, but it was a way to remind us that we can bring down the barriers we have created in our world by sharing basic human values and incorporating different cultures in the fabric of society (or in the fabric of our clothes as the designer did...).
In a way there are some similarities between these two designers as they conceive themselves as storytellers, building narratives through their collections. So, who knows, maybe Grace Wales Bonner will one day move from fashion to art and become a photographer exploring the themes of identity via intense portraits, or Paria Farzaneh will write a novel about her personal heritage and her family's background. For the time being, though, they are reminding us that society can be a fascinating melting pot when we are ready to overcome differences and foster relationships across cultures.
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