In yesterday's post we analysed the stitchless techniques employed by Japanese designer Kei Ninomiya in his collections. Having worked at Comme des Garçons as pattern cutter probably helped him developing some of them, yet some of the most interesting stitchless tricks can be lifted from ancient history.
Consider for example the Dendra Panoply, a Mycenaean bronze body armour (matched with a boar's tusk helmet similar to the one described by Homer in the Iliad) from chamber tomb 12 of Dendra cemetery (end of 15th century BC). Preserved at the Archaeological Museum of Nafplion, the armour is made with horizontal circular segments overlapping one on the other.
Now take into consideration the lorica segmentata (segmented cuirass; 1st century before BC - 3rd century AD) used by soldiers of the Roman Empire.
This innovative armour consisted of metal strips, arranged horizontally on the body; the circular bands overlapped and were held together by leather straps.
The straps surrounded the torso while the upper body and shoulders were protected by additional metal strips. The plate sections were held together with leather straps and brass buckles, hinges, tie-hooks and tie-rings.
The best thing about this armour was the fact that, being articulated it allowed more movement, besides it was possible to store the armour in a very compact space since it was possible to separate its structure into four collapsible sections. That said, while it protected the body from arrows, the leather straps tended to break after a while.
The style of the armour changed as time passed (as proved by the Kalkriese, Corbridge and Newstead lorica armours, named after their places of discovery) and the leather straps were removed in favour of rivets and hooks.
Behind the Dendra Panoply and the lorica armours there is one main principle - circular or semicircular elements anchoring one to the other and forming a collapsible structure around the body.
How can that be applied in fashion? Well, actually that has already been done. Consider this button playsuit by Comme des Garçons and compare the fabric strips with the stiff metallic elements of the armours and the buttons on the playsuit to the belts and hooks in the armours.
In a way the idea behind this design (that could be easily replicated also by enthusiastic sewing amateurs) is more or less the same (yes, it may have been inspired by nature and by the armour of the armadillo, but the anchoring details may be explained with the techniques behind the classical pieces analysed in this post). Fancy more stitchless techniques? Learn your history and you will find them.
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