Bold and abstract geometries can help creating great knitwear designs, so it was only natural for Pringle of Scotland to turn to them for its A/W 2019 menswear collection. The brand's in-house design team didn't actually look at random geometries, but focused on the company's heritage, getting inspired by the Outer Hebrides and Harris Tweed, and adding an arty twist with motifs borrowed from the chevron and diamond patterns created between 1915 and 1923 by Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
The Scottish architect is actually not a new inspiration in the history of men's fashion: as you may remember Yusuke Takahashi moved from Mackintosh for Issey Miyake's Autumn/Winter 2015-16 menswear collection.
Mackintosh's patterns proved a great idea as the graphic diamond shapes were recreated in three-dimensional forms on chunky sweaters or employed to create intriguing motifs on less voluminous twin sets. At times they also appeared as prints on long-sleeve T-shirts. Outerwear, including jackets in Harris Tweed, was instead more functional than arty.
Shame, though, that the team didn't seem to have enough time to study more patterns or take in consideration Mackintosh's ouvre, rather than just a few motifs. The bright and bold stencilled decorations designed by Mackintosh in 1916 for 78 Derngate, Northampton, England, could have provided indeed further inspirations, in the same way as the architecture of the Glasgow School of Art may have contributed to add to the collection a quirkier touch. Mackintosh created between 1917 and 1920 textile designs that clearly showed he had a strong graphic instinct, and used colours in a fearless way. So, in many ways, the collection ended up being a bit of a missed opportunity.
At the moment Pringle of Scotland is also focused on developing a new discourse revolving around sustainability, and has launched a line of recycled cashmere and wool jumpers under the label "Conscious Craftsmanship". The designs are 95% made from old garments pulled apart and re-spun, which is a sort of trend at the moment, as seen also on Zegna's runway in Milan.
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