The Roman Catholic calendar celebrates today Saint Apollinaris of Ravenna. Born in Antioch, he was made Bishop of Ravenna, Italy, by Saint Peter. He became known for his preaching and miracles, but also attracted the hate of his persecutioners. He continued his work of evangelization as he travelled, but, when he returned to Ravenna, Apollinaris was tortured and then sent to Greece.
He was eventually sent back to Italy and returned to Ravenna where Emperor Vespasian issued a decree of banishment against the Christians. As he was passing out of the gates of the city, Apollinaris was identified, arrested, tortured and martyred by being run through with a sword (he was killed on 23rd July, but he is remembered on 20th July on the Roman Catholic Calendar; according to some sources his martyrdom actually took place under Emperor Septimius Severus).
In Ravenna Apollinaris is venerated as patron saint and two churches are dedicated to him - the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo and the 6th century Benedictine Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe (consecrated on May 9, 549 by Bishop Maximian on the traditional site of Apollinaris' martyrdom).
His connection with fashion? Well, as you may remember from a previous post, Chanel's pre-fall 2011 collection moved from mosaics and the glory of Byzantium, so you can try and revisit that inspiration (a trending one considering that the "Heavenly Bodies" exhibition at the Met Museum's Costume Institute includes in the Mary and Michael Jaharis Galleries for Byzantine Art some high fashion designs inspired by Byzantine mosaics) also by rediscovering the churches dedicated to Saint Apollinaris.
The interior of the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe and Sant'Apollinare Nuovo are lavishly decorated with mosaics: Christ is depicted at the centre of the triumphal arch among clouds and among the winged four Evangelists - the Eagle (John), the Winged Man (Matthew), the Lion (Mark) and the Calf (Luke). The lower section features twelve lambs (symbols of the Twelve Apostles).
The upper part of the apse features a large disc enclosing a starry sky with a cross with gems (the bejewelled cross is another symbol very much used in fashion, especially by Versace) and the face of Christ. The Hand of God protrudes from the clouds above the cross and, at the side of the disc, there are the figures of Elijah and Moses. The three lambs in the lower sector symbolise the saints Peter, James and John, alluding at the Transfiguration of Jesus on Mount Tabor.
In the lower section there is a green valley with rocks, bush, plants and birds and among them Saint Apollinaris, praying God surrounded by the faithful symbolised by twelve white lambs.
Erected by Ostrogoth King Theodoric the Great as his palace chapel, the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo was an Arian church dedicated to "Christ the Redeemer", and it was reconsecrated in 561 AD, under the new name "Sanctus Martinus in Coelo Aureo" ("Saint Martin in Golden Heaven").
A legend said that the golden mosaics were a distraction for the worshippers, so that Pope Gregory the Great ordered them to be blackened. The basilica was renamed again in 856 AD when the relics of Saint Apollinaris were transferred from the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe.
Mosaics in this case cover the lateral walls: on the upper band of the left lateral wall there are 13 small mosaics, depicting Jesus' miracles and parables; and on the right wall there are 13 mosaics depicting the Passion and Resurrection. The next row of mosaics features saints, prophets and evangelists in a Hellenistic-Roman style.
Each individual depicted holds a scroll or codex and each of their robes has a mark or symbol on it. The row below features on the left a procession of 22 Virgins, led by the Three Magi, moving from the city of Classe towards the group of the Madonna and Child surrounded by four angels; on the right there is a similar procession of 26 Martyrs, led by Saint Martin and including Saint Apollinaris, moving from the Palace of Theodoric towards a group representing Christ enthroned amid four angels.
This lower band contains a schematic representation of the Palace of Theoderic on the right wall and the port of Classe with three ships on the left wall, and provides us with an idea of the architecture in Ravenna during the time of Theodoric. The white robes donned by the saints and martyrs are fascinating examples of garments hinting at purity, but people who are into fashion (and in particular those who are into sparkling garments...) will probably be more intrigued by the golden bejewelled dresses donned by the virgins led by the Three Wise Men, who wear intricately embellished trousers and Phrygian caps as a sign of their Oriental origin.
Each one of the girls wears the same style of dress, but the patterns decorating them are different and include abstract or geometrical motifs and elements inspired by plants. Plants are actually used a lot in these mosaics as decorative elements and they could offer further inspiration to designers keen on experimenting with the rich fashions that can be discovered in Byzantine mosaics.
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