Fashion design students are usually introduced to the history of fashion, but first and foremost to its very foundations via the principles and norms that regulate the structure of a garment. Most designs are based on classic pattern cutting methods, but there are critics who state these systems could be considered as obsolete as they are based on a quantified approximation of the human body, which means that problems and inconsistencies may arise between the existing models and body dynamics.
Swedish designer Rickard Lindqvist is among such critics: originally trained as a men's tailor, Lindqvist completed his studies with a PhD in fashion at the Swedish School of Textiles. A designer and researcher, he has also worked as a consultant for Nudie Jeans and Vivienne Westwood before he started looking for an alternative method to classical pattern making.
Lindqvist eventually came up with a system that he calls "Kinetic Method" and that is based on an approximation of the body visualized through balance lines as well as key biomechanical points.
According to this method, garment construction starts from the structure of the body and the material qualities of the fabric and the model is developed through concrete experiments using the cutting and modeling of fabrics on living models. In this way Lindqvist suggests alternative solutions to improve the functionality of the garments that protect our bodies.
Lindqvist co-founded with Jimmy Herdberg the Swedish design studio Atacac that is developing the technique further and creating experimental patterns. The two creatives also came up with an alternative price system for their garments: the pieces can be digitally visualised and sold online before they are produced, they are therefore priced for sale before they are manufactured according to an algorithm similar to that used for flight tickets with dynamic pricing, that means a lower price before the item is produced, a "normal" price when the item is stocked and an increased price when the goods are about to run out of stock.
The Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, Spain, is currently offering a two day course (16 hours) explaining Lindqvist's kinetic patterns in May (you can read more about it here). The course is divided in three section, offering participants an introduction to kinetic methods, a practical demonstration and a focus on the basic principles to develop the key points to design legs, shoulders and arms.
The course hopes to encourage and expand the vision and ability of the participants, allowing them to acquire new resources and skills.
Unsure about the method or unable to attend? Well, check out Lindqvist's book "Kinetic Garment Construction: Remarks on the Foundations of Pattern Cutting" to be introduced to his method or experiment with the "Sharewear" files on Atacac's site.
These free kinetic patterns allow users to make a series of garments such as jackets, coats and trousers: among the designs on offer there is also the Pod driver jacket, originally designed for the drivers of Bzzt pod taxi, a firm operating a kind of electrical tuck-tuck service in Stockholm, and featuring special pockets ideal to carry objects when driving the pod and wearing at the same time a safety belt.
Enjoy experimenting with the free patterns and don't forget to reward Atacac by sharing them with your friends (as requested by Lindqvist and Herdberg themselves on the site).
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