This cover of Italian magazine Bella (1st December 1955) shows a streamlined beige wool suit matched with a very cute architectural hat. The suit was designed by Ronald Paterson and, though simple, it looks strikingly elegant with a linear motif around the hips and the front. The jacket was enriched with a luxury touch - a beaver and lamb collar. The straight skirt was actually a sort of subtle hobble skirt since it was tapered at the hem. This detail was launched by Paterson to give wearers the "Paterson Walk", with hips and stomach out, chest in and shoulders hunched forward.
Born in Scotland, Paterson (1917-1993) studied at the Piccadilly Institute of Design in London and trained in Paris. In 1947, he opened his own couture house and had a lot of success in the following 20 years; his fashion house closed in 1968. Paterson also worked as a fashion consultant to a number of films, including The Adventurers (1970) and The Spy Who Loved Me (1977), both directed by Lewis Gilbert.
In the '50s Paterson seemed to have a penchant for basque style berets, at times matched with dark silk coat-frocks. This hat is particularly interesting since the beret is formed by a swirling felt motif and the little "tail" on the top has been transformed into a three-dimensional little tower. The accessory perfectly completes this rather architectural look.
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