In a previous post on this site we looked at the work of Nukeme, a Japanese designer incorporating glitches in his knitwear and digitally printed pieces. Glitches may actually turn into a fully-fledged trend this year: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, for example, included in their A/W 15-16 Monsieur and Pre-Fall 2015 collections distorted tweeds that reproduce the effect of television static.
The design duo also introduced in their menswear collection pixellated effects, combining in the same jumper a traditional argyle jumper and a hacked knitted pattern to create a hybrid top. A traditional pattern on a ski-wear inspired jumper was also hacked by a glitched effect that seemed to erase almost entirely the knitted motif.
In Viktor & Rolf's menswear and Pre-Fall collections there was another sub-theme, retro videogaming: a terrific inspiration (as proved by the hip exhibitions about this topic recently organised by different museums in Europe), it surfaced as a geometric block pattern that called to mind the iconic Tetris blocks. Unfortunately in the Pre-Fall 2015 collection the duo added a romantic motif of appliqued flowers that somehow ruined the geometrical linearity of the top.
In a way Viktor & Rolf didn't really explore to the full the possibilities that morphing and tweaking houndstooth and tweeds can offer, proving that independent and little known designers seem to have gone further in their explorations into more innovative textiles.
The Heart of Darkness-evoking African mask inspired make-up donned by the models and the aggressive accessories and necklaces that seemed borrowed from voodoo practices, made some critics claim they could detect a devilish inspiration in Riccardo Tisci's menswear collection for Givenchy.
Yet, maybe, rather than hellish flames, Tisci was channelling Alberto Burri's arty combustions in his designs with burnt prints.
The glitched and hacked motif returned instead in the Moroccan carpets printed or reproduced in dégradé sequins.
Black cascades of sequins seemed to erase the motif, while on a gauzy evening gown the effect was reminiscent of Alexander McQueen's puzzle bodice from his S/S 2001 collection.
The erased carpet concept called to mind the principle behind Richard Hutten's "Playing With Tradition" rugs. In his pieces, mixing tradition and modernity, Hutten combined indeed traditional patterns with digital effects that stretched the colours, deleting the original decorative elements.
Glitches or hacked and burnt effects are maybe here to stay, so keep your eyes peeled to spot more of them on the next shows. If you want to anticipate the trend, add instead some stylish burns to your old clothes and explain you're going down the Burri path.
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