In yesterday's post we analysed the main themes tackled by the Korean Pavilion at the 14th Venice International Architecture Biennale. Let's continue today the Korean thread with an interview with young fashion designer Inseop Keum.
Born in Seoul, South Korea, in 1987 he first studied science and maths. Intrigued by visual arts in general and by fashion in particular, he moved to New York to pursue further studies in menswear at Parsons The New School for Design. While attending the prestigious fashion school, he had the chance to experience the birth of design, from concept to production, realising how important it is to create wearable collections.
The young graduate was among the finalists of the Parsons The New School for Design and Kering competition and, at the beginning of June, he had the chance to present his collection to a panel of fashion-industry insiders. His graduate collection was inspired by geometric objects and by the interplay between light and shadow.
What prompted you to switch from science and mathematics to fashion?
Inseop Keum: I simply thought about what I really wanted to do. I studied science and mathematics without being really interested, but because my parents suggested me to do so to secure myself a stable future. Yet whenever I thought about fashion and clothes I felt more interested, so I decided to opt for this subject and design what I want to wear.
Can you tell us more behind the themes and inspirations behind the collection?
Inseop Keum: The "Light & Shadow" theme is the main inspiration behind my graduate collection. In a way this is an inspiration I share with other designers, but I decided to approach it in a very original way. I never wanted to use other designers' work to get inspired, so I created my own shadow by draping the shirt, blazer and coat. Through this process, I got unique and very original lines and shapes that cannot be the same as other designers.
In which ways does your passion for mathematics enter this collection?
Inseop Keum: I'd like to design something based on perfect measurements. This does not mean only size-wise, but also in a wider sense, so it refers to clean cuts, a comfortable silhouette, and calculated and predicted results.
What kind of materials did you employ to recreate the three-dimensional effects and silhouettes in your designs?
Inseop Keum: First of all, I used silk chiffon fabrics. I used 16 layers of silk chiffons - 4 different colours and 4 layers for each colours - to provide the depth of the shadows. As second material I employed beads, elements that I consider as tools to create shadows on top of a fabric.
Some of the geometrical effects in your collections look a bit architectural, does this discipline enter into your work?
Inseop Keum: My menswear is very geometric. I strongly believe the most masculine silhouettes are derived from geometric, clean, and sharp lines. However, I don't only extract these geometric lines from architectural elements, I always develop them in accordance with my own interpretations.
In your opinion, is it difficult to innovate menswear?
Inseop Keum: Menswear could be very innovative and new but I always think and keep this in my mind - men never wear something only innovative. Men opt indeed for refined garments that make them look good and, in my opinion, that's where the innovation lies.
Is there an artist/designer who inspires you in your work?
Inseop Keum: Two designers: Robert Geller, because he shows how menswear can be styled in different ways and teaches that "it doesn't have to be created but it's how you use it", and Christopher Kane who creates beautiful prints.
How did you feel at being one of the finalists of Parsons/Kering's annual competition?
Inseop Keum: I couldn't believe I had the chance of presenting my work to actual people from the fashion industry. I was really excited to hear their comments.
What are your plans for the immediate future?
Inseop Keum: I am currently working on my new project - designing a collection for the actual market. This will be a great chance to develop my ideas in a more realistic way. I still have a lot of things to learn from the industry but I want to start developing my label for the future.
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