Band of Outsiders' Scott Sternberg stated that the Autumn/Winter 2014 collection moved from inspiring figures such as Lee Miller, Man Ray, and Elsa Schiaparelli (no, not again Schiap, spare us...). You could actually see hints at Miller in some of the silhouettes, while Schiap vaguely reappeared in what looked like the mediocre imitation of her iconic trompe-l'oeil ribbon jumper.
Trompe-l'oeil was actually one of the sub-themes of the A/W 14 designs and it was introduced (in this functionally preppy collection with a romantic twist here and there) by a white skirt with a belt and a PVC cape with fake toggles and pockets.
Shame Sternberg didn't actually mention the queen of trompe l'oeil - Giuliana Coen Camerino, better known as Roberta di Camerino (and he also didn't mention 1950s trompe l'oeil looks by Hermès...View this photo).
With the help of gallery owner and textile print designer Romeo Toninelli, the Italian designer developed in the '60s ironic trompe-l'oeil prints of buttons, shirt cuffs and pockets that became Roberta di Camerino’s signature designs. Giuliana often conceived her dresses and tops as "illustrated" garments, turning simple pieces into funny and realistically surreal dresses.
"La dogaressa", as Giuliana was dubbed in homage to her Venetian origins, received the Neiman Marcus Award in 1956, together with Cecil Beaton and Marie Louise Bousquet (Irene Brin and Diane Vreeland were in the audience). No wonder the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion was hosted for the last year in 1995 - which contemporary designers among the ones revered by the servile and acritical fashion media out there would indeed deserve such prize?
PS As a bonus Sunday comparison, please note that the top with the eyes seems to be a direct reference to the Schiaparelli-inspired blouse donned by chronic gossiper Sylvia in George Cuckor's The Women.
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