Poet, writer, translator and socialist lecturer William Morris (1834-1896) was also a designer and craftsman. In 1861 he founded the firm Morris & Co. that, producing wallpapers, tapestries, rugs and furniture, became instrumental in creating the so-called "Morris look".
In some of his lectures, Morris lamented the separation between the crafts and the fine arts, and, at a meeting at Oxford's University College chaired by John Ruskin, he stated "I...ask you to extend the word art beyond those matters which are consciously works of art, to take in not only painting and sculpture, and architecture, but the shapes and colours of all household good, nay, even the arrangement of the fields for tillage and pasture, the management of towns and of our highways of all kinds; in a word, to extend it to the aspect of all the externals of our life."
Morris, who defended what are usually considered the lesser arts in further lectures and essays, would have been happy to know that, every now and then, the William Morris Gallery in London (housed in Morris' family home where he lived from 1848 to 1856) dedicates events to fashion.
A few weeks ago for example the gallery launched an event about Giles Deacon, revolving around the creation of "Look 44", a dress from the fashion designer's Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection. As fans may remember, the collection revolved around designs with burnt motifs and faded Renaissance prints.
The closing gown - "Look 44" - was inspired by the imaginary tale of a stately home (and this seems to be a good link with Morris' family home, an 18th Century Grade II listed building, that still preserves many of its original Georgian features) ablaze on a cold wintry night.
The exhibition follows Deacon's creative journey from concept to design, passing through the choice of materials and process of making the items and the final presentation. The exhibition reveals the craftsmanship in the British fashion industry and examines Giles’ source of inspiration. The focus of the event is the room in which "Look 44" seems to be emerging more or less intact from a bonfire like a reborn phoenix.
Giles Deacon is on until 15 December 2013 at the William Morris Gallery, Forest Road, London, E17 4PP. A free curator's tour of the event will take place on 22 November at 3pm.
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