Writing about about prosthetics or attempting to trace a history of the subject is quite often considered by many publications as something rather traumatic since it involves amputation.
Yet this topic, viewed by many as taboo subject, goes back to a long time ago: the earliest historical record of a prosthesis comes from Herodotus, while the first prosthesis made in bronze, wood and leather, was unearthed in the ruins of Pompeii and dates back to 300 BC. Designs of prostheses were also made by a number of influential figures, including Leonardo da Vinci.
The exhibition “Prosthetics” at London's SHOWcabinet, doesn't attempt a precise and accurate history of this topic nor does it go as far back as Pompeii, but explores the theme from a different point of view.
Curated by Niamh White and Carrie Scott of SHOWstudio, the event focuses on contemporary pieces intended to empower, enhance or simply alter the body. The selection includes a variety of contemporary designs, among the others sculptural leather armour-like pieces by Una Burke that restrain and encase the body (as also shown on the film "Bound" directed by SHOWstudio's Head of Fashion Film Marie Schuller); Kat Marks's "The Braces", a selection of three vacuum-formed thermo-plastic braces that hold the waist in tight or accentuate the hips, inspired by her own experience of having to wear a scoliosis brace; Ana Rajcevic's animalesque horns and tusks, and Patrick Ian Hartley's crucifix-shaped crosses made with artificial hip joints, pieces that explore religious and scientific issues.
Though the starting point for this event was indeed the etymology of the word - from Ancient Greek, "addition", or "to add" - the showcase also includes a variety of objects and artefacts which explore ideas surrounding prosthetics and examples of prosthetics as replacement limbs, such as the legs worn by American athlete Aimee Mullins as a Chef de Mission for the Paralympic Opening Ceremony.
Canadian designer Kat Marks did a film with SHOWstudio and Nick Knight a while back, but this is the first time she takes part in an exhibition at the gallery space. Marks’ pieces, available also from the SHOWstudio shop, transform or mimic the body, exaggerating shapes and creating robotic extensions to the natural silhouette.
The exhibition tackles the themes of prosthetics from a different perspective and from the original meaning of the word - so adorning and enhancing as well. Yet your pieces revolve quite often around the theme of empowerment as well and make us forget about the original inspiration behind them, hinting at fashion and sexuality. How do you reconcile in the braces that are showcased here these aspects - prosthetics, orthopedics and sexuality?
Kat Marks: I don’t view "The Braces" as any of those aspects. The initial spark in designing them did come from the Boston Back Brace I wore as a child, however the primary purpose of these fashion braces is to create an interesting aesthetic in fashion. This is what excites me and motivates me to push the boundaries. I was interested in developing a collection that could stand on its own or be pair with another collection. "The Braces" are a subcollection of my 2008 womenswear collection 'Infundibulum'. The bold colors often hint towards sexuality, as well as the high gloss plastic, although this was not necessarily on purpose - I was just drawn to those colours at the time.
The world of fashion has consistently been fascinated by the themes of restricting, bracing and even impairing, what fascinates you about these themes?
Kat Marks: I wouldn’t say I am fascinated with these themes. Material fascinates me and the idea of using plastic on the body seemed a natural design choice, perhaps due to personal experience with the Boston Back Brace. Sometimes the artefacts I create brace or restrict and other times I find myself drawn to design the polar opposite.
Which is the most constricting of the pieces showcased here and why?
Kat Marks: The braces are constricting because the rigid plastic plates - front and back - hug the waist tight and are secured with straps.
A few designers have started creating functioning prosthetics using new technologies like 3D printing, would you ever create such medical pieces?
Kat Marks: I might! I’m interested in technology and how it plays a part in the design process.
"SHOWcabinet: Prosthetics", SHOWstudio, 19 Motcomb St, Belgravia, London, until 31st May 2013
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