For a fashion designer formally showcasing a collection on a runway represents a moment of agony and ecstasy; seeing it being featured in a proper photoshoot is instead an entirely different experience as those same creations naturally take a life of their own, according to the contexts in which they are photographed and the story they are telling. This is exactly what happened with Heather Marie Scholl's graduate collection.
Presented during the Academy of Art University (AAU) showcase at New York Fashion Week, the collection was recently photographed by fellow AAU student Aldo Carrera.
For the shoot Carrera, Scholl and the models decamped to an anonymous motel where the patterns of Scholl's knits took new meanings and revealed controversial hidden details like ejaculating penises on glittery lurex backgrounds.
The main themes of the collection - African American queer artists and queer cultural heritage - became mixed with eroticism, glamour and humour, with occasional nods to a vulgar creative aesthetic, while Carrera found himself facing Scholl's tongue-in-cheek narrative, shaped by cultural discourses on sexuality.
Can you tell us more about your background?
Aldo Carrera: I'm from San Diego, California, but lived in Mexico in the early stages of my life. After graduating from high school in 2009, I moved to San Francisco where I am studying Fine Art photography at the Academy of Art.
What kind of photographer you'd like to be one day?
Aldo Carrera: That's a hard question! Photography is my form of self-expression. I could see myself working in many different areas of the industry, blending my appreciation of fashion with my love of film. Creating ad campaigns for fashion brands would be a dream of mine, but I also love shooting more conceptual editorials. I do really love the collaboration between photography and fashion, so working with designers, stylists, hair and make up artists.
Is there a magazine that influenced/influences you in your work?
Aldo Carrera: Oyster, Dazed & Confused, Acne Paper, i-D to name a few...
Do you have a fave photographer?
Aldo Carrera: Too many to name one. I'm influenced by the works of Helmut Newton, Mario Testino, Nick Knight, but also by emerging photographers such as Gavriel Maynard, and Billy Kidd.
How was shooting Heather Marie Scholl's designs and working with her on the set?
Aldo Carrera: I was actually lucky enough to be able to see Heather's process, working day till night in the Academy's knitwear lab, then seeing her work coming down the runway at NYFW. Getting the up-close and personal perspective of her garments in a tiny motel room was great - we really had fun in there! It was different working with the designer and we constantly swapped inspiration photos and location options to establish a clear idea of what we wanted. Heather's pieces feature a quite tongue-in-cheek narrative to say the least and have such character it was really an honor to be part of her story.
Which is your favourite picture from this shoot?
Aldo Carrera: If I had to pick one is the picture of Fanta up against the white wall, so much attitude, my make up team has been amazing!
Is there a fashion designer you'd like to shoot one day?
Aldo Carrera: Givenchy. It would be a dream to shoot or do anything for them.
What plans do you have for the future?
Aldo Carrera: After school I plan on moving to New York. Aside from that, keep creating, learning, and challenging myself and my work.
All images courtesy of Aldo Carrera
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