Maille (pronounced "my", the French word for "stitch") is a Sydney-based luxury knitwear and jersey line designed by Hellen Kitsandonis.
Having previously worked with established Australian labels such as Ksubi and Bassike, Kitsandonis established her label in 2010 to create luxurious knitwear.
Drawing on her knowledge in pattern-making and design, Kitsandonis started creating functional pieces characterised by natural fabrications, organic textures, exclusive prints and modern silhouettes.
For her Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, Kitsandonis moved from the tough/soft dichotomy, opting for a mix of novelty and tradition inspired by the vision of a modern and progressive woman who favours the Japanese aesthetic.
To give life to her vision, Kitsandonis employed Shibori techniques to make garments characterised by one-off patterns juxtaposed to more structured quilted separates matched at times with classic luxury knitwear in oversized silhouettes.
Where did you study fashion design and when did you found your label?
Hellen Kitsandonis: I was born in Sydney, Australia. I studied at East Sydney Fashion School and I'm still based in Sydney. I have been working on Maille for just over two years now.
So far, what has been the most challenging aspect of managing your own brand?
Hellen Kitsandonis: The most challenging aspect would have to be the business side. Unfortunately, this can take time away from the creative.
Is there a designer who inspires you in your work?
Hellen Kitsandonis: I really connect with Madeleine Vionnet's work. There was such great sentiment behind her work and she was a true architect of the female form. I like to envision movement and how a woman will not only look but also feel in my creations - something I take from Vionnet. Her entire career was interesting, she was a very progressive woman and designer.
Can you tell us more about the traditional Japanese techniques you employed in your A/W 13 collection?
Hellen Kitsandonis: I have been playing with shibori for a while now, experimenting with different techniques used to add and remove colour from the fabric. It was from this research that the collection evolved.
Traditional shibori is a Japanese term for several methods of dyeing cloth with a pattern by binding, stitching, folding and twisting. It is a very methodical way of achieving a unique pattern that can still be controlled quite nicely. I chose to use a discharge technique where you actually remove colour from the fabric by stripping it away. Out of navy comes grey and out of black comes gold. I find it all very beautiful.
The collection seems to be characterised by clean lines, did architecture somehow helped you creating them?
Hellen Kitsandonis: Absolutely. I love Frank Gehry's deconstructive style with aspects remaining slightly unfinished.
As a designer of luxury knits, how do you pick your yarns?
Hellen Kitsandonis: I am initially attracted to the feel of a fabrication. I then have a good play with them to gauge what works best. I always try to work as closely as possible with natural fibers as these feel the best when worn.
What about knitwear, do you feel there are enough young designers willing to work in this field?
Hellen Kitsandonis: I think most designers love knitwear. I think the only limitation is that many designers do not have the skill set and resources to really explore it further.
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