It's pretty funny how sometimes specific fashion moods from the past come back on contemporary runways. For example, during London Fashion Week, Ashish Gupta seemed to be making a reference to an André Courrèges's catwalk show.
Gupta moved in his collection from road and construction workers, a perfectly understandable inspiration if you think about London going through some major works for the 2012 Olympic Games. As usual though, he glammed up his looks covering ordinary fluorescent yellow safety vests and orange pants with reflective tape with cascades of sequins.
Reflective techno fabric was instead employed for dresses, coats and jackets, or used to decorate basic tops with plastic pockets, while hologram sequins dresses, jumpsuits and tops tapped into the holographic trend that is slowly yet relentlessly becoming a mania even in knitwear.
Fringed and sequined kefiah scarf-like tops were at times matched with orange pants to introduce a more casually relaxed theme into the collection and patchwork denim pinafores were employed as another reference to workwear.
While Ashish seemed true to his personal mission of keeping on mixing Zoran Ladicorbic with Bob Mackie, this time his holographic and reflective designs often added a space age quality to the collection.
But the real Courrèges link came when a model wearing a holographic sequined top emblazoned with the apocalyptic message "The End is Near" came out on the runway shortly before the end of the show. While ironically signalling its conclusion, she also called to mind the model who closed André Courrèges' Spring/Summer 1965 runway carrying in front of a brief sun suit a banner on which there was written "Fin" (The End).
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