The word vintage is a broad term referring not only to high quality collector's pieces but also to wearable yet equally exciting garments and accessories found in second-hand stores or markets.
In more recent years vintage fashion has become one of the strongest sectors of the industry: it's now the norm for famous actresses to wear vintage dresses on disparate occasions going from gala events to red carpet nights, for contemporary designers to take their inspirations from their own collections of antique garments or for auction houses to organise special sales of rare fashion gems.
Last week's auction at Christie's South Kensington entitled “Vintage Couture” triggered fashion fans' delirium with items going from unique Elsa Schiaparelli pieces to the wardrobe of Spanish actress Catalina Barcena designed by the couturiere Jeanne Lanvin.
The auction held at Christie’s realised £567,200 (€700,492), with a very special top lot of the sale - a Schiaparelli black velvet evening jacket with baroque mirror panels bought for £73,250 (€90,464).
Yet, if you are part of that anonymous mass of fashion fans who simply can't afford such rarities but you're a passionate vintage lover, do not despair about the news of exclusive auctions, but head instead to the Museo del Tessuto (Textile Museum) in Prato, near Florence.
The museum is opening this week a very interesting exhibition dedicated to vintage that will please both collectors who know very well their fashion history and relatively new vintage aficionados.
Entitled “Vintage. L'irresistibile fascino del vissuto” (literally: Vintage. The irresistible charm of experienced clothing), organised with the support of local institutions, in collaboration with Angelo Caroli's A.N.G.E.L.O. Vintage Archive (considered as one of the most significant and researched Italian vintage archives) and with the support of several fashion houses including Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Emilio Pucci and Max Mara, plus the Massimo Osti Archive, the event is a sort of trip through the history of fashion.
"Vintage" is divided into four sections and includes roughly 100 garments and fabric samples. The displays are arranged in chronological order and mainly occupy the Historical Room and the museum's first floor.
The concept of vintage is analysed through the various garments as costume phenomenon or as inspiration for contemporary designs, and the event is a great opportunity to admire rarely seen pieces, spawning from the '40s to the '90s.
Highlights of the exhibition include Christian Dior's coats, Chanel's classic suits, Space Age-inspired dresses and coats by the Fontana Sisters and by Pierre Cardin, sculptural Thierry Mugler's suits in black wool with golden buckles or his silk organza jacket in bright shocking pink and Issey Miyake's pleated dresses.
Visitors will also enjoy historical pieces including vintage denims, military and music band uniforms, and a 19th century coat from Uzbekistan that looks so colourful and contemporary that it may have been designed yesterday.
Throughout the month of December there will also be a temporary A.N.G.E.L.O. vintage shop open at the museum, an ideal opportunity if you want/can invest in some new pieces to enrich your wardrobe.
The exhibition is open until May next year, so you have plenty of time to plan your trip to Prato.
"Vintage. L'irresistibile fascino del vissuto", Museo del Tessuto, Via Puccetti 3, Prato, Italy, from 7th December 2012 to 30th May 2013, closed on Monday.
Image credits:
1. Coat by Christian Dior, 1950s, A.N.G.E.L.O. Archive
2. Suit by Thierry Mugler, 1990s, Bolli Collection
3. Jacket by Thierry Mugler, end of the 1980s, Bolli Collection
4 and 5. Dress and coat by the Sorelle Fontana (Fontana Sisters), 1969, A.N.G.E.L.O. Archive
6. Cloak, Uzbekistan, 19th century, A.N.G.E.L.O. Archive
7. Dress by Pierre Cardin, 1960s, A.N.G.E.L.O. Archive
8. Dress by Issey Miyake,1990s, A.N.G.E.L.O. Archive
9. Dress by Pierre Cardin, 1960s, A.N.G.E.L.O. Archive
All images by Alessandro Moggi
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