Various trends have emerged regarding the Spring/Summer 2013 season and, while many young designers in London decided to take digital prints further, Paris seems to be more on the arty and geometrical side of things.
Christophe Lemaire designed for example a rather incoherent collection for Hermès that seemed to feature too many themes, from emphasis on luxurious pieces such as crocodile shorts in bright shades to fluid collages of the maison's floral and tropical scarves employed to create tops; from squarish and mannish jackets to curved and softer shoulders or features and details borrowed from traditional Asian costumes.
In this mish-mash of themes that often didn't work too well together, there were some interesting glimpses of bright inspirations: designs that featured graphic and colourful prints (matched with a long scarf around the neck) that evoked the abstract geometries of Sonia Delaunay's striking fabric designs and of her compositions with squares, triangles, stripes, spots, wavy lines and semi-circles.
Delaunay tried to provoke a reponse to colour, form and movement in her colour rhythm paintings and in her Cubist-inspired multi-coloured garments.
Interestingly enough, though, while Harlequin-like triangles, squares and hexagons appeared in Hermès designs, the emphasis seemed to be at times more on prints of technical studies of geometrical figures, which makes me wonder, what would be the results of a collection if, while moving from Delaunay's theories of simultaneous fabrics (so creating dresses and fabrics at the same time), a designer would heavily rely on sharp and architectural forms and could we speak in this case of fashionable and abstract anthropomorphic geometries? Anybody out there willing to take up the challenge?
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