Knitwear designer Laura Theiss explored the world of samurai girls and aliens in her previous work. Moving from early sci-fi films and the space, Theiss embraces in her new collection, entitled “Intercapedonemvs”, our fascination with the universe, combining crafts with technology.
Traditional crocheting is manipulated via computer to create digital patterns programmed by the designer; yarns and cables intertwine in visually striking mirroring effects; weights and textures contrast and combine, while the simplicity of nature-inspired details such as leaf-like patterns is transformed through computer wizardry giving garments the intricate aspect and consistency of lunar rock formations.
The designer also referenced in this collection body mutations through new constructions, materials, forms and concepts, printing some of her trademark crocheted pieces on chiffon and using the fabric for dresses characterised by a retro eclecticism, but still bearing all the sculptural power of her merino wool crocheted or knitted pieces.
To complete the outfits Theiss also designed crocheted headdresses and masks, almost a hint at cyberbodies, robots and, above all, gynoids à la Rachael and Zhora out of Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner.
What’s the story behind “Intercapedonemvs”?
Laura Theiss: The main inspiration came from early science fiction films, the space, maps of the moon, lunar rocks and titanium-rich minerals. So the color palette – atmospheric shades of dark blue, titanium grey, metallic glints with a splash of multicolored nuances – and the combination of two yarns, Italian merino wool and metallics, hint at the mysteries of the cosmos and at a modern sci-fi tale evoked also through the crocheted headdresses and masks accompanying the garments. Yet the most important thing in this collection is the technique I developed to make the actual garments: I basically manipulated traditional crocheting techniques via computer to create digital patterns and hand-crocheted them afterwards. I called it “digital crocheting”.
What prompted you to opt for this new technique?
Laura Theiss: A will for breaking all the crocheting rules and for improvising with experimental shapes. The technique consists in digitalising the patterns, obtaining a continuous piece and then hand-crocheting small pieces and joining them together recreating the digital pattern. In some cases - like the grey and blue tops decorated with crocheted natural elements such as leaves - it was really hard as I had to recreate a pattern that, from one side, spread to the rest of the top.
Do you think digital techniques represent the future of knitwear?
Laura Theiss: I think digital techniques will definitely be applied further to knitwear designs. This will offer designers enormous possibilities, enhancing our creativity. I’m currently interested in pushing the boundaries of crocheting as well: you can only do crocheting by hand and, for the next season, I want to try and come up with an entirely new and advanced technique that can make crocheting faster.
The collection also features printed dresses: was this a new way to extend your crocheting boundaries?
Laura Theiss: Digital crocheting takes a long time and lot of patience. After creating these beautiful pieces I decided to see what happened if the same patterns were transferred to the knitting machines and fine merino wool yarn was used to make the same designs. The results - jumpers and dresses - were quite interesting and rather attractive, so I tried to see what the effect would be if I reproduced these patterns on chiffon for dresses destined to new markets in warmer countries.
Your collection was also accompanied by a film, can you introduce us to its moods?
Laura Theiss: I developed the film “Intercapedonemvs” together with my long-time collaborator, creative director and stylist Kabir, we decided to work on something abstract and conceptual to show the collection's mood and present my knitwear in a new and exciting way. We thought that an ordinary fashion film with a story line wouldn’t have managed to show the true essence of the A/W collection. The crocheted knitwear patterns in the collection are based on traditional leaf motifs that have been mirrored and digitalised. This inspired us the references to nature as well as abstract and symmetric visuals including kaleidoscope and mirroring effects in the film. Kabir suggested film maker and director Oggy Yordanov who has been making some great films along these ideas and all together we developed a mysterious character, an androgynous creature from another planet, Luna. In the film Luna moves under a sea of chiffon, perpetually alters and morphs his/her silhouette, creating a metaphysical encounter with the fabric, or adopts rigid and robotic movements. Luna is played by the infamous Lady Lloyd, and Oggy came up with a special choreography that went well with the slow motion shots, repetitions, close ups and de-fragmentations. A lot of work went into the conceptualisation and filming of the project, and the final editing was done by the talented Basement Film Productions that worked on all the visual effects to produce an eerie futuristic film.
Do you have any special projects lined up at the moment?
Laura Theiss: After a few seasons of successful collaborations with the Sinoca Shanghai company, I was invited to develop an entire range of leggings and tights for them, so I’m working on that and on my next collection as well. My knitwear will also be showcased during the “Maglifico - Highly Creative Knitwear” exhibition at Milan’s Palazzo Morando from June to September 2012. The exhibition features pieces by newcomers and innovative designers from the international fashion scene and I feel very honoured and proud of being part of it.
Credits:
Photos:
Photographer: Oggy Yordanov
Styling: My Name is Kabir
Model: Nastya P@Models1
Film:
Director Oggy Yordanov
Creative Direction and Styling My Name is Kabir
Luna played by Lady Lloyd
Hidden Luna played by Belkina
Hair John Mullan
Nails Joanna Webb using Artistic Colour Gloss
Makeup Philipp Ueberfellner using Illamasqua
Editing Basement Film Productions
Music "Kefweth" by Global Goon
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