After my post on uniform polyhedra and Archimedean solids I’ve been on the lookout for geometrical figures in the collections showcased during New York Fashion Week.
So far I have found only one reference to geometry in Preen’s Autumn/Winter 2011-12 collection.
Apparently designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi from British label Preen were trying to mix the Northern California Arts and Crafts movement with sci-fi moods à la Tron (definitely not new inspirations having been already exploited by other designers, though not in the same collection...), a rather interesting concept, though it must be said that none of the two inspirations was maybe immediately detectable in the collection.
The opening designs seemed to be more focused on multi-coloured geometrical figures mixed with floral motifs.
The designers represented them in three different formats: embroidered (on blouses and tops and around the collar of shirts), printed (on dresses) and knitted (on tight fitting intarsia cashmere sweaters and twin sets).
In most cases the geometrical motifs generated almost three-dimensional optical illusions, though the main idea was probably to recreate a sort of patchwork that evoked the Arts and Crafts movement through a combination of hand-embroideries, tapestries and appliquéd elements.
The best effects where actually achieved when the embroidered pieces were mixed with the printed ones: interesting contrasts and effects were indeed generated by pairing different fabrics and materials together, while keeping the focus on a rather classic silhouette based on elegant blouses and slim three-quarter skirts split to the thigh or on tailored trousers suits matched with high collared shirts.
This trick also allowed the duo to create optical illusions: the ensemble that seemed to be formed by different parts, that is a crepe short skirt over-imposed on a mid-calf skirt, was actually just one dress.
The second part of the collection was probably less interesting from a strictly geometrical point of view since it featured abstract surface elaborations, encrusted beaded motifs, sparkling metalwork, Greek frets embroidered on sheer tops with salmon sleeves and curly-haired fur decorating the sleeves of jumpers.
In fact this part of the collection moved from a secondary inspiration, fashion editor and icon Diana Vreeland, and while there were sparkles of originality and elegance here and there, these designs made you wish Thornton and Bregazzi had kept their focus on the more interesting geometrical surface elaborations.
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Posted by: tuxedos | July 13, 2011 at 07:41 AM