Jonathan Saunders fans and followers perfectly know that when one of his collections starts with strict lines and well-balanced colours, the best is yet to come.
The bi-coloured mohair suits in purple and black or red and gray that opened the show, followed by a rusty brown pencil-skirt matched with an emerald silk blouse with a nude back and a black belt and a rusty brown top with a blue back paired with a blue skirt, were indeed just the beginning of a series of designs in kaleidoscopic colours.
In the previous collection Saunders took inspiration from photographer Erwin Blumenfeld, reinterpreting in prints and colours his techniques and use of lights.
For the Autumn/Winter season he moved instead from Paul Outerbridge and from his use of shades, graphic effects and carbro colour process.
Outerbridge - who also worked in his career for Paris Vogue with Edward Steichen - became a popular commercial photographer, especially after his experiments with the technically difficult tri-colour carbro process that allowed him to give his models a special reality with a surreal edge, creating visual artificial paradises.
Saunders seemed to play a lot with Outerbridge's surreal shades, coming up with suits in colourful geometric patterns and prints of flowers and birds in bright colours, the latter applied also to men's cashmere cardigans and sweaters.
At times the designer obtained effects very similar to specific Outerbridge's photographs such as the iconic "The Shower" (View this photo).
The hyper-real baroque prints created clever contrasts with the controlled silhouettes and the severe collared and pencil skirts: blooming lilies and poppies exploded in acid green and bright orange, turquoise and electric blue, while checks in different dimensions and colours were mixed together in the same design.
A sporty elegance was replaced by the evening looks that comprised chiffon dresses with pleated hems and sequins trapped under thin tulle.
While it was good to see Saunders coming up with looks for young but grown up women, it would have been even better to see more menswear looks: Saunders’ bright and energetic shades are indeed what's often needed in the grey desolation of winter.
To know more about Outerbridge you can check out Wolfgang Hastert's inspiring documentary "Woman with Claws".
Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos
Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos
Comments