Cutting Architectural Shapes: Cynthia Rowley and Chado Ralph Rucci S/S 11

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It was somehow impossible for me not to think about a few projects seen at the 12th International Architecture Exhibition in Venice while looking at some of the designs for the next Spring/Summer 2011 season.

In the Education section of the Hong Kong pavilion I saw for example a model that challenged the classical notion of college campus thanks to its compact and environmentally innovative architecture.

The project, developed by the Office for Metropolitan Architecture and the administrators of Chu Hai College, is called the Compact Campus Building and it's a unique structure since, while respecting the site and demanding climatic conditions, it also embodies the college educational philosophy.

Moving from the interaction of different disciplines, the project focuses on the relationships between the various departments, reinforced through spatial and visual connections.

Usually a building has a sealed outer layer, but in this case the layer is deconstructed creating in-between spaces that open and close reducing the volume of conditioned space.

In this way the building - characterised by a sort of hole-y structure - leaves most of the site free, recreating a sort of natural environment.

The holes of the Compact Campus Building came back to my mind when I saw images of Cynthia Rowley's Spring/Summer 2011 designs.

Mainly focused on putty grey, ice blue and green shades with occasional splashes of red and orange and a few prints as well, Rowley's new collection features indeed skirts and dresses characterised by series of holes or appliquéd cabochon buttons in different colours creating dotty graphic motifs on the fabric.

Though at times the designer repeated herself a bit too much, the collection was well executed.

The designs featuring the perforated motifs were actually more interesting, since they allowed the skin of the models to become an integral part of the look.

The hole-y designs worked particularly well when matched with sheer and matte sweaters.

The architectural elements were enhanced by the metal and enamel barrette necklaces and the rectangular hair clips gracing the models' hair.

There was definitely more variation at Chado Ralph Rucci, but there was also an uncanny resemblance between some of the designs and the works of the Greg Lynn Studio as exhibited also in Venice at the Austrian Pavilion.

Directed by Los Angeles-based architect Greg Lynn, this is one of three studios teaching architectural design in the Institute of Architecture at the University of Applied Arts Vienna.

Austria focused on the "Under Construction" theme at the Venice Architecture Biennale, presenting new visions and prospects for modern cities, all characterised by an optimistic approach.

Most of the projects presented at the Austrian Pavilion also had a futuristic quality about them, resembling in some cases spaceships rather than buildings.

Considered a provocative architect, Lynn has been mixing in his work cutting-edge technology, contemporary art and science fiction aesthetics with architectural form.

Lynn's works are usually projected into the future and, a while back, the architect was also involved in the project "Other Space Odysseys", inspired by the 1969 moon landing and exploring how scientific expeditions, satellite launches, and space tourism had an impact on our lives and relationship with the planet.

The perfect structure of Chado Ralph Rucci's designs, the way he played with tulle inserts, sheer and matte fabrics, or added airwave-shaped embroideries on the sheer hems of skirts and jackets, made me think a lot about Lynn's buildings.

The designer also tried to create more affordable and casual pieces such as cotton dresses and jumpsuits.

Yet despite the sporty feeling of some pieces, tailoring was impeccable (if there is one designer who knows about tailoring in New York, that's Rucci) and the clean silhouettes often made you think about space uniforms and modern buildings rather than casual wear.

Raincoats and jackets had bell-shaped sleeves that added special volumes; skirt suits and dresses with sheer inserts seemed to have been ripped, deconstructed and then reconstructed like buildings through detailed surface elaborations.

As a whole the collection - enhanced also by accessories such as sheer short gloves - could be described as architectural space age couture, blending design, technology, craftsmanship and some principles from the aerospace industries.

For further futuristic and architectural inspirations check out the book Greg Lynn - Form - I'm embedding here a brief video showing some pages of the book.