Vintage motorcycles and rock'n'roll are just two of the main obsessions of Daniele Bianucci and Alessandro Fontanesi, the founders of fashion brand Phonz Says Black.
Yet, by looking at their latest collection featuring men and women's jackets, you realise that, behind the gang aesthetic and the tattoos, lies a passion for researched tailored details.
Inspired by the colours and iconography of vintage freak show posters, Phonz Says Black's latest collection includes a selection of slim fit jackets with decorative buttons on the sleeves, seams inspired by the profiles of Gibson guitars and a patented system that allows the wearer to detach the lining - featuring exclusive prints by Milanese artist Massimo Gurnari - and use it as a scarf.
The duo's Spring/Summer 2011 collection is accompanied by a video shot by Italian photographer and director Ivan Cazzola in Turin.
What prompted this collaboration between a fashion brand and a photographer?
Ivan Cazzola: I’ve been focusing on fashion films for a while now and I was looking for a small brand that may have given me the chance of working on an interesting project. I saw the Phonz Says Black collection a while back and liked their way of communicating fashion and ideas, so I contacted the duo and submitted them a project. In just a few months' time we made a film, did the shoots we exhibited in the spaces of the Pitti trade show and launched a marketing campaign. We even made a brief limited edition booklet featuring a selection of illustrations inspired by vintage freak show manifestos, the main theme behind the collection. It was interesting and refreshing working with Daniele and Alessandro since they allowed me to experiment quite a bit and develop new and unexpected projects.
Ivan Cazzola: The film revolves around the concept of gang and on how the members of a gang share the same backgrounds and inspirations. The film developed from this concept and I tried to shoot it over the shoulder to achieve an immediate and spontaneously natural aesthetics and also get a sort of dirty textured chiaroscuro and capture the frenetic lifestyle of a gang at its best. I was also inspired by photographs of band members in the backstage after a gig.
Where did you shoot the film?
Ivan Cazzola: The film was shot in Turin, my hometown. I sort of divide myself between Milan, London and Paris, but Turin remains my HQ and, since I know it rather well, I can always find there places that perfectly fit with the moods and atmospheres I want to portray.
Ivan Cazzola: Unpleasant and disturbing images are often very attractive. Think for example about the work of American artist Paul McCarthy. Freaks are different from the mass, they are sort of special and that's exactly what fascinates me and the Phonz Says Black duo a lot.
Among Phonz Says Black's fans there is also Limi Feu, what do you like about the duo's collections?
Ivan Cazzola: The fact that it only features tailored jackets. It's amazing to find such young designers producing tailored pieces in a market where people keep on designing banal T-shirts and sneakers. In a way I find it amazing that two young men with such contemporary and modern tastes are taking inspiration from tailoring traditions.
What plans do you have for the future?
Ivan Cazzola: I’m interested in connecting photography and video and finding new means of communication. The Internet gave the chance to many people to express themselves and communicate with each other no matter where they are. Think about all the blogs and magazines mushrooming as we speak, they generate new ideas and create new languages, also visual ones.
All images by Ivan Cazzola
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