More knitting styles: Sandra Backlund

Another designer celebrated in the Zoot Mag article I mentioned in yesterday’s post is Sandra Backlund.

The Swedish designer who has become synonymous with voluminous, architectural and chunky knitwear recently collaborated with Italian knitwear company Maglificio Miles developing exclusive pieces with them.

In her most recent collection the designer focused on a three-dimensional study of surfaces, carving out of her yarns sculpturally precise shapes and silhouettes.

What follows is a brief Q&A with Backlund, an extract from the Zoot Mag feature.

Why did you choose to express yourself through knitwear?
Sandra Backlund: Actually, I do not feel like I chose knitwear, for me it just happened. I have always been experimenting with different materials and three-dimensional shapes and my knitting technique can be interpreted as the result of my studies in 3D silhouettes. 
 
How do you choose the yarns you work with?
Sandra Backlund: It depends: sometimes I choose a yarn since I find it interesting or because it fits with the theme of the collection; other times I opt for specific yarns because I know they can provide me with specific shapes I’m aiming for.

Is there a particular designer among the ones who distinguished themselves in the past for their knitwear who represents an inspiration for your work?
Sandra Backlund: I love everyone who approaches fashion from an artistic point of view rather than conceiving it just as an industry. On a personal level, though, I can’t wait to be able to buy my first Alaïa dress!

According to you, how has knitwear changed in the last few years?
Sandra Backlund: I guess it has changed a lot, though I’m still not sure if it is just a temporary trend. I often think about how specific forms of art and craftsmanship live past different times and trends. Timeless things such as traditional handicraft techniques are fascinating and I think the only way to bring them into the future and employ them without being burdened by a frame of mind fossilised in traditions and the past is to use them as inspirations and starting points. 

Do you find knitwear challenging, stimulating or difficult to carry out?
Sandra Backlund: For me knitting is synonymous with creative freedom, but it also very time consuming and expensive and it can be a real challenge to one’s mental and physical strength!

Do you feel that knitwear has helped you developing a precise aesthetic for your brand?
Sandra Backlund: I guess so. During my time at the fashion school I felt very much inclined towards collages and I decided to apply two dimensional picture collages to my work, combining them with traditional handicraft techniques and fashion. I slowly began to develop the heavy wool collage knitting that I still use and the way I invent the pieces while working. I kept on improvising, experimenting on the human body with this technique and eventually discovered innovative ideas for shapes and silhouettes.

What kind of advice would you give to young designers who would like to get trained in knitwear?
Sandra Backlund: Spend time experimenting on your own, learning and exploring the basics of tailoring and traditional handicraft techniques and be aware of any mistakes and ideas along the way that can take you further in your research. 

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