From a textile workshop to a knitting cooperative

In the latest issue of Zoot Magazine that should be now out, there is a feature on the latest knitwear trends that explores the work of a few contemporary designers.

Among the designers interviewed there is also Annalisa Dunn from Cooperative Designs.

Since Dunn got a mention in yesterday’s post it sounds logical to do a follow up on Cooperative Designs today with a brief extract of the interview published on Zoot Magazine.

Cooperative Designs, the label launched by Central St Martins’ alumni Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann, is still relatively young, but the girls seem to have clear ideas about their direction.

Stripes of all proportions, graphic designs, colour blocks, multi-coloured jacquard pieces and 80s silhouettes create a strong visual impact in their collections.

Their S/S 2010 collection is inspired by the Bauhaus and Gunta Stölzl and also features plastic and wood jewellery pieces made in collaboration with Corrie Williamson.

Some of the motifs used in the collection call to mind Margaret Köhler’s wool, cotton, silk and viscose works in silvery grey, black and white, Anni Albers' wool and silk rugs and tapestries in black, grey and red shades, Gunta Stölzl's textiles and rugs characterised by intricate abstract motifs and intense nuances and Otti Berger's experimental creations.

Stölzl directed the Bauhaus textile workshop from 1927 until 1931: under Stölzl's direction innovative experiments were carried out and the possibilities of using cellophane based materials in textile production were also explored. The best results were achieved in the fabrics used for interior design while new types of textiles for industrial applications were also developed.   

How do you usually choose the yarns you work with?
Annalisa Dunn: We are always looking for new and unusual yarn combinations and vary our yarns according to season and concept. For Autumn/Winter we combined ultra soft lambswool with Lycra to create unexpected stretch.

Is there a particular designer among the ones who distinguished themselves in the past for their knitwear who represents an inspiration for your work?
Annalisa Dunn: Italian knitwear brands like Missoni and Stefanel are very inspirational for us. They developed their own factories and this gives them complete control over their collections in terms of quality and innovation. This is something we aspire to. 

According to you, how has knitwear changed in the last few years?
Annalisa Dunn: Knitwear has finally been accepted as a fashion fabric and there are more young designers nowadays pushing the boundaries and creating new and exciting work.

Which are the knitwear trends for this Autumn/Winter?
Annalisa Dunn: Statement knitwear, extreme layering and unexpected textures.

Do you find knitwear challenging, stimulating or difficult to carry out?
Annalisa Dunn: It is all of those things. Designers need to continually innovate and push things forward. The challenge is what makes it worth continuing.
 
Where do you see knitwear going in the next five years?
Annalisa Dunn: I hope it becomes accepted as just another way of making fabric and becomes a true part of the fashion industry.
 
What kind of advice would you give to young designers who would like to get trained in knitwear? 
Annalisa Dunn: Choose your college wisely. Different schools teach different aspects, so do your research and work very hard, knitting is technical and requires patience and discipline.

Images of Cooperative Designs' Autumn/Winter 2009 collection,  “Spadgermatazz”, by Roger Dean; images of the Spring/Summer 2010 collection, “Happy Birthday Bauhaus”, by Amy Gwatkin.

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