Laura Theiss and the bright winter of knitwear

Knitwear has gone through an amazing Renaissance during the last few years, also thanks to new and talented designers working in this textile medium.

Among them there is also Laura Theiss. Born in Lithuania, Laura Theiss studied in her home country, in Germany and in the UK where she was awarded a BA in Fashion Design from London's Central St. Martins.

Theiss’ designs offer structural and patterning potential.: the designer creates new juxtapositions of shapes and fabrics by folding, layering and twisting the material of her dresses and opting for an unusual mix of colours, coming up with high contrasts, interesting volumes and sporty but sensual pieces.

Question: What fascinates you about knitwear and why did you choose to express yourself through it?
Laura Theiss: My passion for knitwear started at a very young age. I made my first piece - a crocheted tablecloth - when I was seven. In a way knitwear chose me as it has always been around me and our house was all decorated in knitted and crocheted cushions, pictures and toys. For me knitwear is comparable to my mother tongue: it’s a sort of language embedded in my DNA and I find it easy to express myself through it. The best part of being a knitwear designer is that I can create my own fabric just with a needle and yarn.

Question: How do you choose the yarns you work with?
Laura Theiss: First of all I try to visualise how my collection should look like, then I collect the images that inspire me and translate the ideas into my knitwear, choosing yarns that can express my thoughts. Sometimes it’s the other way round: once I found a beautiful silk yarn in a local vintage store in Kyoto and I felt it was perfect for lovely summer tops, so, in this case, the yarn lent me the inspiration for my designs.

Question: Is there a particular designer among the ones who distinguished themselves in the past for their knitwear who represents an inspiration for your work?
Laura Theiss: At the moment I love young designers such as Cooperative Designs, I particularly like the fun element they inject into their work. Knitwear has become much more exciting than it was and young designers are trying to push the boundaries creating amazing garments.

Question: Which are the knitwear trends for this Autumn/Winter?
Laura Theiss: This season a nice knitted or crocheted piece is a must. It can be an oversized cocoon jumper made from chunky nice wool or a crocheted lace dress, but it must have three-dimensional elements, armour details and colourful geometric patterns.

Question: Do you find knitwear challenging, stimulating or difficult to carry out?
Laura Theiss: Knitwear is challenging as it is a slow process and if you make a mistake during knitting, you must start from scratch once again, yet it is fascinating and stimulating as there are so many new techniques to explore, so it offers almost no limits to creativity.

Question: Do you feel that knitwear has helped you developing a precise aesthetic for your brand?
Laura Theiss: Yes, it did and I also think that, at the moment, this is the best way to express my identity.

Question: Where do you see knitwear going in the next five years?
Laura Theiss: I think that by the Autumn/Winter 2014 season we will see even more creative shapes and yarns. I am sure new technologies will open unexplored possibilities by that time!

Question: What kind of advice would you give to young designers who would like to get trained in knitwear?
Laura Theiss: Ask around and find out who can knit or crochet in your family. Follow them as they work and, to gain proper knowledge in all the techniques and knitting machines, follow a proper course. It is important to find your own style and become confident in your work. 

Photography by Alexey Sorokin @ Larapixie

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