Irenebrination: Notes on Architecture, Art, Fashion, Fashion Law & Technology

LFW: Kinder Aggugini, Topshop Unique, Graeme Black, Peter Jensen, Nathan Jenden, Basso & Brooke

Every time the fashion media hails a new designer who’s debuting at a particular fashion week as the next big thing, I get anxious and worry  about what will happen if the much-awaited collection doesn’t stand up to the expectations. In this unfortunate case there are two types of reactions: 1) the media keep on supporting the designer, saying he/she’s done something great all the same; 2) they get cynical and ignore the designer from then on.

In the weeks preceding London Fashion Week many British papers focused their attention on one main designer debuting his collection in London, Italian Kinder Aggugini.

Having worked for a lot of different brands and well-known designers in the past - the list is long and also includes Versace and Vivienne Westwood - Aggugini has finally decided to establish his own brand and go solo.

Aggugini has undoubtedly proved in his first collection that he’s endowed with great sartorial precision and this was clear from his jackets and double-breasted coats. Yet I do not entirely agree with the excitement that is surrounding him at the moment mainly because when it came to variety, boldness and originality, Aggugini's collection left something to be desired. 

From a man who years ago shared a flat with rather bizarre characters such as Leigh Bowery and Trojan and mentions as inspirations punk and Chanel, you would have expected slightly more daring outfits rather than just silk polka dot/flowery print dresses and camisoles. In a nutshell, if only Aggugini had infused in his wearable and sensible clothes a bit more audaciousness and had opted for a less Mariella Burani-ish approach, his uniqueness would have emerged in a much better way.    

Then there was the case of Topshop Unique that cleverly put in the Autumn/Winter 09 cauldron whatever young people wish their wardrobes were made of: sequinned tracksuits or harem pants, voluminous knits, bold colours, big shoulders and ample hoods, prints of flying saucers over London, metallic skirts, leather leggings and skin-tight dresses, a touch of Gareth Pugh here, a print à la KTZ there, without forgetting a few references to the revived rave movement. The trick - repackaging everything that is fashionable at the moment and selling it at affordable prices - is clever and financially rewarding.

The downside of the collection? It’s strictly for young people, possibly born after 1983, but that's perfectly fine as that's the main customer the label is hoping to attract with this line.  

Sartorial precision came back with Graeme Black, who - inspired by minerals - designed a collection that featured perfectly cut jackets and capes with wide sleeves, and mini-dresses that echoed in their shapes or silhouettes the structure of crystals. In some cases the colour palette was lifted from the world of minerals with rusty tongues of fabric forming the layers of a strapless tiered dress that evoked the configuration of quartz, while a warm gush of orange lava seemed to burst out of a white mini-dress. 
  
While designing a collection inspired by his aunt who lived in Greenland Peter Jensen stepped into the undesirable realm of tweeness with warm capes, sweaters and white boots inspired by traditional costumes, plus polar bear jumpers, childish checked frocks and a cropped jacket with prints of little children dressed in various traditional costumes that called to mind Disneyland's “It’s a Small World” more than trendy ready-to-wear.

Nathan Jenden went instead for an 80s approach with black skin-tight outfits paired with fishnet body stocking in most cases. The best pieces were definitely the grey bondage trouser suit and the thin as paper white short pleated dress with multiple cut-outs (a clever idea to transfer maybe on an old dress or pleated skirt).

Basso & Brooke must have gone through a maturing process since their last collection.

Though the digital prints they chose for their Autumn 09 designs were as unique and technologically advanced as ever, their palette was less extravagant and the collection also featured quite a few dresses that maybe even more mature customers would find rather covetable.

Stephen Jones’ paper wigs might have been a reference to Marie Antoinette, but the designs as a whole mixed architecture with interior design and a rather heavy touch of Rococo.

In some cases the whimsical and romantic flourishes and decorations that typified the Rococo style were printed on silk dresses in golden nuances; in others leopard prints were mixed with floral prints and motifs that evoked the plaster works of Rococo times.

Some patterns called to mind the opulence of decoration and the extravagant luxury of Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli’s buildings and the ornate ceilings and elaborate wall décors of late Baroque churches, yet the collection as a whole was more subdued than usual. A final mention goes to the brightly coloured shoes that, decorated with leather tongues curling on the toes, perfectly matched the swirling patterns printed on the dresses.      

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

A festive circus of full-on glamour: Ashish A/W 09

Fashion is a language and it can mean different things to different people: for some it’s a form of art, for others it’s an unreal, unfair and at times cruel superficial and self-indulgent act.

Fashion is passionately loved, hated or criticised, yet what we often forget to remember is that it also means creativity and therefore fun.

With a few exceptions, most of the designers who recently showcased their new collections in New York, revealed they were either worried, uncertain or hopeful about the future, but London Fashion Week has definitely brought back the fun in fashion.

While the Central St Martins show proved as usual there are fresh and exciting ideas coming from young and talented designers, Ashish Gupta invited his audience to have fun at his very personal circus.

After cartoon prints, sequinned smiley faces, polka dots, bold clashes of colours, badge covered jumpsuits and such likes, I was looking forward to seeing what Ashish had up his sleeve this time and I must admit I wasn’t disappointed.

The circus theme has already been widely explored in fashion, but Ashish managed to totally reinvent it in a glamorously crazy way.

There weren’t real animals at Ashish’s circus, but models clad in animal print mini-dresses, tops, jackets and coats in vivid colours dusted with sequins.

In some cases leopard, tiger, giraffe and zebra prints were mixed all together in the same garment, creating in this way unusual and over the top effects and contrasts with different textures; in others one part of an animal – the head of a zebra, for example – surrealistically sat on the sleeve of a sweatshirt. While there were no clowns, there were plenty of coats and trousers decorated with multi-coloured pompoms.

Yet the circus was just one of Ashish's inspirations: traditional winter jumpers with snowflakes and reindeers were totally reinvented, transformed into glamorous sequinned pieces ideal to wear at the party of your life; entertainers à la Liberace inspired instead piano key skirts - a direct reference to the infamous piano keys suit worn by flamboyant pianist and entertainer Liberace - and mini-dresses with sequinned trompe l’oeil tuxedo jackets; sportswear inspired the sweatshirts with beaded epaulettes and sequinned tracksuits with a hood that zipped all the way up; there was also a little tribute to America in the star-spangled trousers, shorts and gloves for all those Wonder Women out there who want to dare.        

Those Ashish fans who want to opt for a less sparkly look can choose the sweatshirts with three-dimensional roses blooming all over them or around the neckline. For those ones who prefer full-on glamour there are instead long gowns with names of international capitals in bright colours.         

Energetic, dynamic and ironic Ashish’s new collection features the sort of garments that do not allow the wearer to pass unnoticed and guarantee a glamorous and electrifying entrance.

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Can't get enough of New York fashion? Try the Williamsburg Fashion Weekend

Fashion week has come to a close in New York, but if you live there, if you're just on a holiday or you got stuck in the Big Apple because you missed your plane and you already have fashion withdrawal symptoms, head to Brooklyn and throw yourself into the shenanigans of the Williamsburg Fashion Weekend.

This thoroughly independent event started yesterday at the Glasslands Gallery with runways shows of local independent designers and gigs by various bands, and is continuing throughout today. 

Yesterday it was the turn of Mandate of Heaven that presented its unique handmade designs made from recycled and vintage materials; Nettie Tiso / Racecar! Apparel, the women and menswear collections launched by designer Nettie Tiso inspired by iconic decades such as the 1920s, 30s and 60s and accessorised with jewellery by stylist Meagan Camp; Trisha McBride with her belly dancing skirts that daring fashionistas can use to create rather unusual styles and PapuszaCouture, a label by designer Kaytee P. who incorporates in her collections unlikely elements, from paintings to taxidermy and found objects.

Today there will be more labels and independent designers striding down the catwalk: Arthur Arbit's label King Gurvy will introduce a collection inspired by dandies, the 60s and future; Marcus Hicks's SDN will instead present its latest men and womenswear collection, entirely made in Brooklyn without the use of sweatshops, inspired by the theme of spies and created using vintage and sustainable fabrics; Treehouse Brooklyn's Sirius* will launch a collection of reworked and bejewelled vintage pieces and eco-friendly jerseys while Sodafine's owner and designer Erin Weckerle will showcase her dresses that incorporate hand-painted details and decorations.

You won't probably be able to do any first row celebrity spotting at the Williamsburg Fashion Weekend, but the event definitely guarantees plenty of fun and affordable clothes.

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

From sculptural to surreal: Calvin Klein and Isaac Mizrahi

There haven't been too many designers at New York Fashion Week who presented collections featuring outfits with well-sculpted silhouettes. Luckily, Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein restored the equation with a collection that mainly included dresses and coats with well-cut and almost futuristic lines.

Minimalist coats had asymmetrical necklines, jackets, dresses and skirts seemed simple from a distance, but, once you looked better, you could detect they were actually formed by different panels cleverly overimposed one on the other and, in some cases, kept together by a single button.

Cuts seemed to asymmetrically slash strikingly beautiful coats while the most interesting pieces were the ones in which Costa tried to experiment with different textures, to create interesting motifs by irregularly piercing felt to give it a lace-like effect or by pleating fabric and decorating with it a one-shoulder dress. Also the evening wear was interesting, in particular the yellow dresses that injected in the collection a tiny bit of optimism. 

The emphasis was definitely on timeless pieces with a precise construction and architectural shapes created by using different fabrics. The architectural theme continued in the velcro strapped boots, shoes and sandals with rectangular cut-outs in the heels.  

In the last few days the majority of designers who showcased during New York Fashion Week showed a rather pessimistic approach to fashion, but Isaac Mizrahi went for that touch of optimism and surrealism that you desperately need when things go really wrong.

At Mizrahi's everything was sporty but chic, colours exploded in chunky jumpers made by interweaving strips of wool; ample sleeves characterised coats and jackets; soft plaid blankets seemed to form long skirts; sequinned evening dresses sent out sparkles while those handbag hats that were slightly Elsa Schiaparelli put you instantly in a good mood. But then "Smile" was the title of the show and let's hope that, as London Fashion Week opens, there will be fewer worries around and plenty to smile about. 

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Lingerie for the "artful" seductress: Made By Noemi S/S 09

In previous posts I often tried to discover "arty" inspirations in fashion collections, but I never thought I could have found a link between art and lingerie. Well, that is until today. Made By Noemi's Spring/Summer 09 collection has finally allowed me to spot a first connection between the two. 

Noemi Ivanova, the lingerie designer behind Swedish label Made By Noemi, has indeed created a new line inspired by Edward Hopper.

As she states on her site, Ivanova was inspired by “the stark shadows, clear colours and poignant lines” of the American painter, famous for his landscapes and cityscapes that often convey a sense of alienation and loneliness.

Ivanova explained me that no particular painting informed her brand new lingerie collection, it was more the atmosphere in the paintings that influenced her designs. “I’ve always loved Hopper's work and always been amazed by how he presented the characters in his works: no matter how big or small they are painted, they are never the protagonists and yet they're not passive," she told me via email. "The women are not exceptional, but at the same time they're not accessories, they are just plain, simple and beautiful." 

Made By Noemi’s S/S 09 collection features three main lines for men and women - “Bone”, “Pigeon” and “Plum” - plus a further line for women, “Icy”, apart from the usual base collection that includes plain and functional everyday lingerie.

The new collection offers a wide choice and features bras and pants in satin and cotton, bodies in grey cotton and lace, plum jersey gowns and versatile scarves in light pastel colours or printed with water painted patterns. The colour palette of the new collection was taken from the shadows in Hopper’s paintings and from his grey, ice blue, pear and plum nuances. 

The best pieces are the ones in cotton and lace and, for all those men out there who like to dare, there is also a lace vest of the kind that will easily be accidentally stolen by many girlfriends. There are subtle Hopper references also in the swimwear collection that includes swimsuits and bikinis with ruffle skirts in beautiful shades of grey.

Shots for the new collection were taken by Swedish photographer Ceen Wahren who managed to give the images a special 40s vibe. You can see the new advertising campaign on Made by Noemi's site while you can keep updated about Ivanova's designs by visiting her blog.   

So has Made By Noemi set the tone for a new trend, art-inspired lingerie? Who knows. What I certainly know is that Ivanova's first experiment at fusing art with lingerie was quite successful.  

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Looking for that elusive variety at New York Fashion Week

Lack of variation seemed to be a recurring theme, or rather sin, throughout the latest catwalks at New York Fashion Week.

There seemed to be an unnecesary abundance of vests at Oscar de la Renta and just too few proper evening gowns, while Marchesa opted for a sickeningly sweet glamour (somebody please stop the frothy, frilly trend now, we're all grown up and we're not little princesses...). It was also a shame that, while providing fun headbands, bejewelled gloves and bags, Alexandre Herchcovitch didn't seem to be able to move away from his palette of choice, with red and greyish blue printed tops, flapper girl like dresses and sequinned (though vertical) rugby striped skirts.

3.1 Phillip Lim's menswear was a bit too sparse to be really striking and new, while Lim's womenswear got accidentally stuck in the Sixties and, in some cases, the designer struggled to get away from there.

Mongolian fur jackets and vests could have been avoided, yet there were some quite beautiful print dresses, silk blouses with ruffles running along the sleeves and sharp trouser suits, but the best pieces were the cropped tuxedo jackets-cum-coat that had a wonderful rockish edge and the functional warm parkas with soft fur lining.  
   
Temperley London tried to provide more variety and, though not all the looks were fresh, nor there were really extraordinary pieces, the collection as a whole was engaging.

There were definitely references to the Orient in the embroidery, pompoms and tall fez-like hats (though the latter were in some cases a bit too Louis Vuitton Autumn 08), but everything was filtered through modern inspirations.

There were quite a few versatile pieces, from high-waisted harem pants and black shirts with pleated motifs to short leather jackets paired with body-con dresses and short dresses with an empire line broken by a vertical zip.

Colours appeared in the pompoms and in the geometrical motifs of the mini-dresses that sometimes evoked the colours of the Tibetan "Bangdan", but the best piece was an entirely black coat in which the fabric had been pleated and folded origami-style.
 

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Open for (virtual) business: Bally

I find amazing how while the financial downturn had rather negative consequences on the sales of shops and department stores, virtual shops have been doing extraordinarily well.

It has been definitely easier for young designers to use the net as a way to reach out to new customers, but in the last few years even historical brands and established designers have launched themselves onto the virtual market.

The latest brand to do so was Moschino that last Monday launched its first online boutique. Now it’s the turn of historical Swiss company Bally.

Launched in 1847 by brothers Carl Franz and Fritz Bally, the company produced in its early days shoes for work, leisure activities and sports. In the late 1970s Bally added to its main line also small accessories and handbags all produced keeping firmly in mind the three main principles of the company, high quality, versatility and elegance.

The Bally site – powered by Yoox – offers the chance of buying men’s and women’s shoes, bags and small leather goods. The launch of the site coincides with the arrival of the Spring/Summer 2009 collection in the stores that features, as Bally Creative Director Brian Atwood explained in a press release, “elegant classic pieces that you want to keep with you wherever you go”, all characterised by a great care in every detail, materials, stitching, hard-ware, linings and finishing.

At present the site - available in 6 different languages - is accessible from Europe and the United States, but further expansion is planned. Bally will celebrate the opening of its online store by offering a special gift and free postage and packaging for all orders placed until the end of February.

You wonder what brothers Carl and Fritz would have done of their original venture going virtual, yet, if this is the future, such great entrepreneurs would have probably welcomed the decision.  

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Dare (Yes, We Can!): Rodarte

Undoubtedly things got slightly better at New York Fashion Week in the last few days and, after a rather slow and boring start, the catwalk shows have become more interesting and less bland.

Expectations were high about Rodarte’s catwalk and that was foreseeable since Kate and Laura Mulleavy have in just a few years managed to charm New York and the rest of the world with their designs and innovative use of fabrics, and the American sisters managed to deliver another excellent collection.   

Fashionistas might have detected a sort of bondage theme in their Autumn collection, but there was much more than that. In fact, people who are passionate about architecture - a discipline that I find fascinating and that I hope to keep on developing more in this blog - might have identified a particular connection between the Mulleavy sisters' designs and the work of Gordon Matta-Clark, the American architectural artist who became quite popular in the 70s for his building cuts.

Matta-Clark's most interesting work consisted in literally removing parts (floors, ceilings, walls, etc.) of different buildings who had been abandoned or were scheduled for demolition or in splitting in half a house, transforming in this way the perceptions people had of that building and of its surroundings.
 
The artist's work had an extraordinary visual value and this could be said also of Rodarte's latest collection. While there were no flowing gowns, ballerina or column dresses, short skin-tight mini-dresses with draped and pleated motifs remained, but they were completely transformed by using different fabrics.

Almost using Guy Debord and the Situationists's concept of détournement, that is the "reuse of pre-existing artistic elements in a new ensemble", Kate and Laura deconstructed their pieces, adding snakeskin and crocodile embossed fabric, giving a luxurious edge to their glamorous and aggressive amazons.

The colour palette mainly comprised different shades of greys, with glimpses of blue, green and metallic colours here and there, while black was used for the strongest looks. In some cases the final effect was a bit like looking at a demolished house: imagine the dusty grey debris of a demolished building among which you can detect pieces of plywood, bits of colourful wallpaper and other assorted detritus. 

Knits came back in funnel-like neckpieces, cardigans, tops and skirts, though they weren't as cobweb-like as in the previous collections, in fact they were more consistent and almost oversized for Rodarte's standards.

The outfits were accessorized with leather bondage boots and the final look was chic and modern, helped by the very basic yet sleek make-up and hairstyle.

So, well done to the Mulleavy sisters for having done another bold and daring collection.    

A final mention today goes to Matthew Williamson: his collection featured cocooning coats in bright shades of orange, leather trousers in vivid colours and interesting dresses, skirts and suits in metallic nuances with prints of blown up jewellery. You just wished though that the designer had concentrated more on the latter and less on his pieces with dyed fox fur. Yet, though not extraordinary, the collection featured quite a few rather wearable pieces.  

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Catwalk Genius teams up with Laura Lees for LFW

Catwalk Genius recently teamed up with fashion designer and embroiderer Laura Lees for a short film screening and reception at London Fashion Week.

The site has just launched a competition that offers as main prize 2 VIP tickets for the 21st February event. To get them you just have to send an email to talktous@catwalkgenius.com including your personal details (name, age, daytime contact number, address).
  
A while back Laura Lees’s graffiti-like embroideries have appeared on garments from Giles Deacon and Fee Doran’s joint collection. The Edinburgh-born but London-based embroiderer also teamed up in the past with Noki and received commissions from Luella Bartley.

As the years passed Lees focused also on a few art projects, organising exhibitions of her rather unusual and innovative appliqué paintings. So far her collections have featured delicate dresses, blouses and skirts all embellished with her painstakingly embroidered and appliquéd motifs.

Lees’s designs have also been sold at Selfridges where in 2005 the designer displayed her entire East London-based workshop in its windows. In 2006 Lees launched a successful partnership with Topshop and her embroideries of stars and lightening bolts appeared on a leopard-print silk dress that quickly turned into a bestseller. 

Two years ago Lees debuted at London Fashion Week where she continues to show her collections. The designer’s creations are available from Catwalk Genius and if you want to take part in the competition remember it closes on Thursday 20th February at 1pm.

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Bright and optimistic: Marc Jacobs A/W 09

Fans of minimalism and of dark colours have probably written off from their fashion diaries the 80s as times of excess and, in some cases, of bad taste. Marc Jacobs is instead among those people who, fashion-wise, see the 80s as a great decade of fun and experimentation.

Inspired by the 80s, he sent down his catwalk around 60 models, all sporting different looks, styles and make-up and, to create a continuity between his recent work for Louis Vuitton and his Marc Jacobs’ collection, he added to his designs a few references to Stephen Sprouse. While black and grey prevailed at the very beginning of the catwalk, the main colour palette seemed indeed to be heavily inspired by Sprouse’s neon shades.

The catwalk started with sweaters in grey with asymmetrical zips paired with tight trousers or skirts, but, gradually, colours popped up in the different accessories, from scarves and tights to long leather gloves, bags and shoes.

Metallic shades appeared on dresses and sculpted jackets matched with bright blue denims, then it was the turn of coats, jackets and capes in bright and optimistic nuances. 

Jacobs’ party dresses and washed jeans were fine, but it was his outerwear that truly did the trick, especially the kimono-like coats and capes with ample sleeves in vivid yellow or red, the fuchsia coats or short green jackets with bold square shoulders, the short turquoise coats paired with yellow and blue dresses and tights, the wide violet ponchos and a few jackets in black and metallic prints with extravagant and elaborate shoulders.

Some of the colour combinations reminded me of Stephen Sprouse’s Polaroid of Debbie Harry wearing a green dress and fuchsia tights, but the various hairstyles created by Guido Palau, the make-up by François Nars and the atmosphere seemed to be entirely lifted from the Polaroids taken in the 80s by art director and designer Maripol with just a touch of Slava Tsukerman's Liquid Sky.       

As a whole the collection wasn’t really on par with the designer’s creations for Spring 09, yet Jacobs should be praised for the energetic imprint he gave to his collection and for the optimism he injected in it.

Besides, Jacobs should also be congratulated for drastically reducing his guest list and avoiding extravagant sets, letting in this way people focus on the collection rather than on the annoying buzz, excitement and hysteria that usually surround it. 

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos

Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos