My long-time friends know that I have banned a few words from my life as I hate the way they sound. A few examples? The Italian words "panini" or “vino” used in English contexts and with an English pronunciation (as in the pretentious expression "Can I have a glass of your vino?" pronounced in an Italian restaurant located in the UK – what’s the point of it?) or the name of the island of Capri in English (with an accent on the 'i' – why putting an accent on the ‘i’ anyway? It sounds a bit daft, sorry, it’s not that you are translating a name of a town in English as in the case of “Venezia” that turns into “Venice”).
These terms make me cringe, sending shivers down my spine. The latest addition on my list of words I hate is fashion, or rather trend, related. The new term I hate is “cage” or “caged” to describe a grid-like item of clothing or accessory. In this case though I don’t hate the sound of this word, but the negative connotations it has. A cage is indeed something that entraps or constricts you, limiting your movements. You could use the word "cage-like" referred to crinolines for examples, but referred to a pair of grid-like sandals or a skirt, it drives me crazy. Why should my sandals be “cages” in which I could lock my feet in? Yes, it sounds good in a fetishist kind of way, but a) I'm not a fetishist, b) I hate the idea of constricting my feet into a cage.
Instead of “cage” I would therefore suggest to use the term "grid". I find it much better, as it sounds more inspirational. A grid indicates a framework of crisscrossed or parallel bars, but it could also be referred to the streets of a city forming a grid, or to the regularly spaced horizontal and vertical lines forming squares on a map, a chart, an aerial photograph or an optical device, used as a reference for locating points.
In leather, lattice, mesh and metal, in glossy, metallic or monochromatic colours, the grid is destined to become a staple feature of this year’s designs.
Comme des Garçons anticipated the trend with its Autumn 2008 deconstructed grid-like tops and skirts or white tulle dresses crisscrossed by a black grid, while Yves Saint Laurent’s open grid leather boots and sandals with a metallic grid heel, confirmed this was going to turn into a proper trend by Spring/Summer 09. Inspired by a more famous grid, the Eiffel Tower’s, it’s impossible to deny that these shoes have perfect proportions and a great architectural connection.
If you prefer art, and pop art in particular, to architecture, but want to follow the grid trend, try Ruthie Davis’ “Graffiti" pumps available in bright colours or in black and white and characterised by a Mondrian-like grid.
Grids have often been used in architecture: think about the orthogonal grids used by Islamic architects to design their buildings in elevation as well as in plan. In their case the grid was also the starting point for all the decorations.
One of the most recent buildings to follow the “grid” trend is the one designed by Dutch architecture firm UNStudio for Louis Vuitton’s Japanese store. The shop, that should open next year in Tokyo, features a grid-like motif that allows natural light and ventilation to come in and also contributes to give the building a special lightness.
Inspired by the work of Spanish industrial designer Jamie Hayon, British Medieval armours and Islamic art, Turkish brand Gaia & Gino recently designed a series of interesting vases with a grid-like structure on the upper part.
Fashionistas who do not like architecture or interior design won’t be able to deny that there is a reference to the grids of Moorish buildings in the silver “grape”, “pineapple” or “star” ear covers by Kali Arulpragasam’s Super Fertile.
I love Arulpragasam’s approach to jewellery: I think the way she uses her pieces to send out messages is impressive. Even in the breast-plates that tackle political issues there is a grid-like structure that tells the story of war torn areas or shows cultural aspects of particular nations. Arulpragasam’s breast plates are almost imaginative and creative permutations of more traditional grids.
I guess this is what I like about grids: they can be altered, rearranged, changed and transformed in a way cages can't. And change is one of the fundamental values of fashion. So, from now on, no more "cages" for me, just "grids".
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The fashion figure is like a suggestion of the human figure; the female fashion figure exaggerates the normal human body and alters reality to showcase fashion trends. The figure is elongated in order to elaborate detailing in a design, in other words a fashion figure is a sort of like a hanger for clothing.
Posted by: Workwear | September 13, 2012 at 08:13 AM