During a recent interview I did with Francesco Scognamiglio, the young Italian designer told me he admired the work of Riccardo Tisci and Stefano Pilati. Scognamiglio said he felt honoured by their work at historical French fashion houses such as Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent. It can be tremendously hard for young designers working for well-known maisons to bring all their talent and fresh vision to a collection while keeping in mind also the codes of that particular fashion house. 
Think about the rumours surrounding Alessandra Facchinetti leaving Valentino and you’ll get an idea of the amount of pressure involved in maintaining the style of a famous maison.
You can therefore understand Stefano Pilati's choice in favour of a stylish simplicity in his Spring/Summer 09 creations for Yves Saint Laurent.
Pilati's designs were chic and modern, but also very sensual: silky kimono-coats and jackets were elegant but definitely not over the top as garments inspired by the Orientalist fashion can be; though enriched by big bows at the back, little black dresses had a linear simplicity; trouser suits had the sort of precise cut Saint Laurent loved. Sometimes Pilati's designs prevailed over Saint Laurent's as it happened with the Italian designer's fluid drop-crotch trousers, worn instead of skirts or cropped trousers with see-through blouses or short jackets. 
Soon, though, Pilati relapsed into safer inspirations presenting updated versions of Saint Laurent’s safari jackets, for a more modern look à la Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour. 
Even in Saint Laurent’s most commercially successful collections, the designer would leave room for something a bit more fantastical, just to prove that women were practical creatures by day while they also needed clothes that allowed them to dream a little at night. Saint Laurent’s preoccupation with fancy dress for after-dark situations was echoed in Pilati’s sequinned dresses in dark shades of burgundy, green and blue.
A very honourable mention goes also to the open grid leather boots and sandals with (what looked like a very sensible) metallic grid heel. The silver sandals had a sort of architectural charm about them and seemed to go well with both dresses and trouser suits. Keep an eye on them, they will definitely prove a winner next season.
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