Antiquities and archaeology often serve as rich sources of fashion inspiration. Keeping up to date with new discoveries can indeed provide fresh ideas for designers. Take Pompeii, for example, which continues to reveal remarkable finds and never ceases to surprise.
New excavations in the Regio IX section of the archaeological site uncovered a sacrarium (a place for sacred objects) with stunning cerulean-painted walls adorned with female figures representing the four seasons (Horae) and allegories of agriculture and sheep-farming.
The use of blue in Pompeian frescoes was rare and typically reserved for rooms of significant decorative importance. This discovery could inspire a fashion collection, prompting designers to rethink how blue can add a distinctive touch to clothing and accessories.
In April, another discovery in the same area revealed a banquet hall with elegant black-painted walls. The dark color was likely used to mask smoke deposits from lamps employed during evening gatherings, making the painted figures stand out vividly.
Researchers noted that the themes depicted in these rooms often center on heroism, as they feature heroes and deities from the Trojan War, as well as themes of fate and the opportunity humans have to change it.
In Roman times, it was common for banquet rooms to be decorated with mythological scenes, they served to entertain guests and spark discussions about human existence.
One fresco shows Apollo attempting to seduce the priestess Cassandra, while another depicts Paris meeting Helen, foretelling the tragic vicissitudes of the Trojan War. Paris is shown in an intriguing striped tunic with colored rectangles, with matching greaves, an ensemble that may inspire knitwear designers as well.
Jewelry designers can also draw inspiration from recent findings. Excavations at Piano d'Accio in the Abruzzo region uncovered an Iron Age necropolis with the remains of a woman wearing an iron diadem (will they scan the skull and 3D print the diadem? Let's hope, so as it would help us understanding what the ornament looked like) and an amber necklace. The remains were also surrounded by other pieces of jewelry. All the artifacts are attributed to the Pretuzi people, and, as stated, the burials date back to the Iron Age (4th and 5th centuries BC).
Sometimes connections between fashion and antiquity are almost invisible: fashion gestures seen on modern runways, such as models clutching coats or stoles to their chests, a gesture that some interpret as the epitome of elegance and modesty when they see it on Prada’s runways (but the trend has appeared on other shows as well, such Jacquemus') have historical roots too.
Roman noblewomen wore the stola, a long tunic, usually covered by the palla. The latter was a large, rectangular piece of cloth, that could be arranged in various styles depending on the occasion and personal preference. It could be worn draped over the head, shoulders and around the body, somewhat like a shawl or a cloak. It was usually made from wool, but wealthier women might have a palla made from finer fabrics. The palla was associated with married women (matrons) and symbolized their honor and dignity.
An example of palla can be seen in the statue of Eumachia in Pompeii: Eumachia was a Roman business entrepreneur and priestess. She served as the public priestess of Venus Pompeiana in Pompeii as well as the matron of the Fullers guild.
Women who did not wear the palla or wore it improperly might be perceived as immodest or of lower moral standing. Because it was not sewn or fastened, the palla required careful arrangement and manual adjustment to maintain its shape and position. Women therefore used their hands to keep the palla from slipping or shifting and hold it in place (especially when the palla was used to cover the head or was wrapped in a way that required extra support). Women of lower ranks, who were occupied with manual work, could not afford such gesture, that's why the palla also indicated status. Holding the palla was therefore also a gesture that signified modesty and propriety.
This historical context adds depth to the elegance seen in contemporary fashion shows, where similar gestures are used to convey sophistication. Just as Roman noblewomen displayed their status and decorum through their attire, modern runway models use clothing and styling to project an image of elegance and refinement.
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