In the previous post we looked at a mini-box from the collections at Taipei's National Palace Museum characterised by a design that we may want to reinvent in the modern packaging of makeup products. Are there other exquisitely carved designs that may be worth rediscovering or reinventing?
Well, in the same section of the museum ("A Garland of Treasures") visitors will discover this cabinet with a silver spirit fungus ruyi scepter inlaid with pearls and gemstones in the centre, surrounded by several intricately elaborate pieces. As they are slightly arched, you may think these are hair ornaments, but actually, they are fingernail guards.
In traditional Chinese society, members of the imperial court and aristocracy in the latter part of the 19th century adorned themselves indeed with fingernail protectors. Signifying elevated status, long nails became emblematic of a life of opulence, suggesting the wearer was exempt from manual labor and likely had servants. Nails held a particular significance, with nail polish (crafted from a blend of egg white, beeswax, and flower petals) gaining popularity during the Tang dynasty.
To shield their nails from breakage, affluent women in the Ming and Qing dynasties began using nail guards, also referred to as finger coverings. Typically worn in pairs on the fourth finger and pinky of each hand, these guards, serving as symbols of wealth and status, were often crafted in gold or silver, varying from simple designs to intricately decorated pieces featuring auspicious symbols such as dragons, flowers, birds, coins, and Buddhist motifs. Some guards incorporated precious stones, enamel and tortoiseshell, and artisans made them employing techniques like carving, painting, and inlaying.
The guards displayed diverse shapes, ranging from blunt and rounded to thin and pointed, with some being straight or curved. While the backsides were often pierced for ventilation, those with enamel or gem inlays were closed due to the added weight of materials. The length and style of the guards conveyed the wearer's status, but also their personality.
Examples from Taipei's National Palace Museum collections include gilt copper filigree fingernail guards adorned with kingfisher feathers (the turquoise bits – yes, that's not enamel but feathers), bamboo leaves, and floral motifs, as well as tortoiseshell guards featuring pearl-and-gemstone floral inlay and guards showcasing openwork designs with pearl-and-gemstone embellishments resembling cracked ice and plum blossoms. All these artifacts date back to the Qing dynasty (1644-1911).
Over time, fingernail guards transcended social classes, with the more ornate ones signifying wealth and the simpler ones associated with manual labor. This prompts a question for fashion designs students: does your culture or country possess a body accessory that used to define social class or status?
As you ponder about this question, consider the possibility of reinventing fingernail guards. In more recent years we have often seen fingernail guards or long nails donned by celebrities or performers during gigs or in music videos – think about Cardi B's iconically extreme nail art or Rosalìa's nail art and fingernail guards in the video "Aute Cuture" – but maybe fashion design students planning year-end shows on a budget and looking for an intriguing accessory with some historical connections, may want to try and create their own distinctive fingernail guards (maybe recycling or upcycling materials?) for that extravagantly striking touch.
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